Teatrino di Palazzo Grassi
Fashion in Film
On the occasion of the ten-year anniversary of the Fashion in Film Festival, London, the Teatrino di Palazzo Grassi presented a
cycle of screenings open to the public and a workshop for students dedicated to
exploring the relationship between fashion, cinema and art.
Above.
Fashion designer Nanni Strada who conducted
a workshop and presented her film Il
Manto e La Pelle.
http://www.palazzograssi.it/it/eventi/tutti/fashion-aperture/
http://www.iuav.it/Didattica1/workshop-e/2018/Fashion-Ap/index.htm
http://www.iuav.it/Didattica1/workshop-e/2018/Fashion-Ap/index.htm
Fashion Aperture
Fashion Designers and the
Moving Image
Workshop
The
three-day workshop Fashion Aperture -
Fashion Designers and the Moving Image, investigated the relationships
between fashion and new technologies and, in particular, the use of film by
fashion designers as a tool for expression, planning and communication, from
the beginning of the 20th century to today.
Caroline Evans, Alessandra Vaccari and Nanni Strada
The workshop
was created and organized by Alessandra Vaccari, Iuav University of Venice, and
Caroline Evans, Central Saint Martins College, University of the Arts London, with the participation of fashion designer Nanni Strada.
1970s Radical Fashion in
Motion
Il Manto e La Pelle
introduced by Nanni Strada
Italian
fashion designer Nanni Strada has devoted her career to developing
unconventional ways of thinking about clothing. In 1971 she designed the
so-called abito abitabile (habitable dress) with no lining, no fixed size,
adjustable fastenings and no reinforcements, kept together by ‘welding
stitches’ (derived from knitwear). Searching for architectural purism in clothing,
she has developed her research and design practice over a period of several
decades, while also contributing to the theory and culture of fashion design
with books such as Moda Design (Modo, 2000), and Lezioni. Moda Design e Cultura
(Lupetti, 2013).
Photograph still from Il
Manto e La Pelle – courtesy Nanni Strada Design Studio
Il Manto e la Pelle -
1973 - Metaprogetto and Film
Nanni Strada with Clino
T. Castelli
This
workshop considered the key role that film played in making visible the radical
anti-consumerist ideals of the 1970s Italian Design scene. Against this background,
the workshop focused on Nanni Strada’s pioneering film Il Manto e la Pelle (The
Mantle and the Skin) and provided a unique opportunity to meet the designer
herself. Presented at the XV Milan Triennale (1973), the film explained and
promoted her new system of ‘dressing design’: geometric, two-dimensional,
compressible clothes assembled with futuristic stitching (the Mantle series)
and tight tubular garments without seams – a seamless suit (the Skin series).
Nanni Strada - Pantysol – Tubular Dress without Seams
Nanni Strada – Torchon – Pleated Tubular Dress
Winner - Compasso D’Oro -
1976
Still from The Inferno
Unseen – courtesy MUBI
Teatrino di Palazzo
Grassi
The Inferno Unseen (15)
with live electronic
score by Rollo Smallcombe
Teatrino
di Palazzo Grassi celebrated 10 years of the Fashion in Film Festival. Fashion
in Film, MUBI and Lobster Films created a new cut of Henri-Georges
Clouzot’s 1964 The Inferno. The Inferno Unseen resurfaces the original rushes
of Clouzot’s unfinished feature, in a series of kinetic and optical experiments
set against a newly-commissioned live electronic score by Rollo Smallcombe.
“The original rushes came like a pack of cards that had been
very well shuffled. The music is 100% composed specifically for the new cut.
That way it can really connect with the edit of the visuals. I wanted to create
a soundscape that responded directly to the footage. I like to think that
Clouzot’s original treatments and my electronic score feed off each other to
offer a fresh take.”
Rollo Smallcombe
London based music producer,
composer and filmmaker
Mubi’s Kiri Inglis –
Palazzo Grassi’s Martina Malobbia – Fashion in Film director Marketa Uhlirova -
Palazzo Grassi’s
Jacqueline Feldmann
Still from The Inferno
Unseen – courtesy MUBI
The Inferno Unseen – UK - 2017
The
edit exclusively features film rushes for Henri-Georges Clouzot’s unfinished
film Inferno (1964), left behind in 185 cans at the CNC Archive and
re-discovered by Lobster Films in 2007. It is edited by Rollo Smallcombe and
Marketa Uhlirova and features Serge Bromberg’s voice. Clouzot’s cameramen Andreas Winding, Claude
Renoir and Armand Thirard shot some twelve hours of film footage, showing
abstract kinetic experiments and actors including Romy Schneider, Serge
Reggiani, Dany Carrel and Jean-Claude Bercq captured in a number of wardrobe,
screen and optical effects tests. The focus is primarily on Schneider
performing simple, seductive actions in carefully composed mises-en-scene.
Actors
Romy Schneider, Serge
Reggiani, Dany Carrel, Jean-Claude Bercq, Jacques Gamblin, Bernard Stora,
Brigitte Bardot
Cinematography -
Andréas Winding - Armand Thirard - Claude Renoir
Costumes - Jacques
Fonteray
Mario Lupano
Sergio Gallozzi, Maria
Grazia Rosin and Galliano Mariani
Still from The Inferno
Unseen – courtesy MUBI
The Inferno Unseen – UK - 2017
Mike, Jill and Jessica
Smallcombe
Alexis Sornin
Still from The Inferno
Unseen – courtesy MUBI
The Inferno Unseen – UK – 2017
Romy Schneider
Departing
from Serge Bromberg’s critically acclaimed documentary about Clouzot’s film
(2009), The Inferno Unseen focuses solely on the haunting and often beautifully
colour-lit visions. Here the union between the filmic and the sartorial is made
all the more striking by the unique temporality of a screen test performance.
