Thursday, September 30, 2010

Milano: Missoni Spring/Summer 2011 collection

 Missoni Spring/Summer 2011 collection.  Angela Missoni walks the runway after the Spring/Summer Missoni 2011 collection.

Backstage at Missoni - models prepare for the show. Contemporary vibrations, color, energy, graphic elements and wording, bold intarsia, cutouts and patchwork together with prints, high-tech structural nylon inserts define the Missoni S/S/ 2011 collection.

 Backstage at Missoni – the make-up # 1. The make-up was designed by Lucia Pieroni using M.A.C. make-up products.

Backstage at Missoni – the make-up # 2.  The beautiful model, whose most notable features are her beautiful eyes, Hiedi Mount, was made-up by Lucia Pieroni who described “The make-up is beautiful and healthy as the clothes are so colorful and it is super sexy.  A light foundation, smudgy eyes, bronzing on the cheeks give a healthy glow.  The lips are nude colored and the lipstick is applied with the fingers so it’s not too perfect looking.”

Seen backstage at Missoni. Model, Heidi Mount chats with Missoni muse, Margherita Maccapani Missoni.
Note: On Marghrita’s top from the S/S 2011 collection the playful lyrical wording that evokes fun images and sounds. Iconic statements are blended and interwoven with macro flame-stitched, fret zigzag motifs and jacquards.

 Backstage at Missoni – the make-up # 3. Victoria's Secret supermodel, Karolina Kurkova prefers to apply her own mascara.

Seen backstage at Missoni. Tatiana de Santo Domingo and fashion editor and stylist, Vanessa Reid.

Backstage at Missoni - the hairstyle.  The hairstyle was created by Wella Professional global creative director, Eugene Seuleman. The hair is “Wind blown has a very dry texture, it looks as if it is weathered and has  fallen out of the scarf.” He explained.

Backstage at Missoni – accessories # 1. The hats are dramatic square brimmed hats that highlight the uniqueness and mystery of today’s woman.  The sunglasses are eccentric and have geometric shapes.

Backstage at Missoni – accessories # 2. Like the nail varnish, the multicolored knit sandals have fun rounded heels in fluorescent colors. 

 Seen backstage at Missoni. Rosita and Luca Missoni enjoy a coffee and a cappuccino.

Missoni.  Ankle length dresses, maxi skirts, cropped tops, bermudas and trousers, jackets with long waistcoats based on geometric shapes.   The collection boasts a palette of pop acid colors yellow, orange, blue and green.  The summer wardrobe pays tribute to contemporary art and celebrates the world’s different cultures. There is an explosion of texture, color and Missoni’s signature zigzag knits.

 Seen backstage at Missoni. Tai Missoni.

Seen backstage at Missoni. Angela Missoni and French Vogue’s editor in Chief, Carine Roitfeld.  French Vogue celebrates its ninetieth birthday this year with a special issue with Lara Stone on the cover wearing a lace mask and nothing else and a masked ball in Paris.
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Milano: Maurzio Cattelan - L.O.V.E. sculpture - Piazza Affari

Piazza Affari – Maurizio Cattelan Statue.  Look closely at this sculpture, because it is being taken down, probably before you even read this blog. The controversial Italian internationally renowned artist, Maurizio Catellan’s eleven meters high L.O.V.E. sculpture is/was placed in front of the Milan Stock Exchange. Originally entitled 'omnia munda mundis' in Latin meaning 'to the pure [men], all things [are] pure'.
Note: an exhibition of equally controversial works by Cattelan can be seen in the  Sala delle Cariatidi of Palazzo Reale until October 24th, 2010.
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Milano: Marni Spring/Summer 2011 collection

Marni Spring/Summer 2011 collection – backstage.   Athletic and contemporary describes the mood of the Marni Spring/Summer 2011 collection.  Her style unmistakably inspired by sports uniform references and a taste for liaisons of technological fibers and couture elements.   Constructions marry color, textures and different workings.

Backstage at Marni. The Castiglioni family: Giovanni, takes care of the outlets, Gianni is the CEO, Consuelo, the creative director and Carolina takes care of the virtual store and is also the accessory buyer.

Marni. Ephemeral mini dresses in macramé lace are worn with multi-colored shorts.

Backstage at Marni –  the hair and make-up artists Hair designer, Paul Hanlon and make-up artist, Tom Pecheux ‘cuddle up’ to Freja Beha, the season’s most in demand model.

Backstage at Marni – make-up # 1.  In the words of superstar catwalk make-up artist, Tom Pecheux, the make-up is “Playful and smart, vivid colors on mat orange lips, the white eye shadow called, Jesso has a strong graphic element with a black line on the lid.  No blush, no mascara and a veil of foundation.” Tom used M.A.C. Pro make-up.

Backstage at Marni – make-up # 2.  
The lip color effect was obtained with this orangey red pressed powder, by M.A.C. called Frankly Scarlet with a foundation of orange Lipmix, see below.

Backstage at Marni – make-up #  3.  The M.A.C. orange Lipmix goes under the pressed powder on the lips.

Backstage at Marni – the hair.   Paul Hanlon created the hairstyle to look weathered, beachy and sea-salty.  At the back it is tied in a knot with elastic threads and brought to the side to give a “fallen-out” effect onto which is placed a soft leather sports helmet.

Backstage at Marni – the nails # 1. This season a lot of attention was given to nails and toe nails.  A model is getting a change of nail varnish on her feet.

Backstage at Marni – the nails # 2.
The fingernails have been softened with Nimue moisturizer.   She is reading Oscar Wilde’s A Picture of Dorian Gray.

Backstage at Marni – a detail. 
The back of a scuba inspired jacket with mesh detail in the back.

Seen at Marni.   Saks Fifth Avenue’s Terry Schaefer.

 Backstage at Marni - the accessories # 1.  Though the sunglasses place the importance on volume, the impact is light: tinted transparent acetate frames merge with the lenses of the same hue. Also note the diagonally striped motifs, which appear in knitwear and exclusive prints.

Backstage at Marni - the accessories # 2.  The sports helmets are made in soft leather and the sophisticated, sculpture necklaces add counterpoints.   Metal, the predominate material of ultramodern impact is used in striking assemblages of various sized spheres and cylinders in the finest chain-metal mesh of gold, nickel or lacquer, clusters of boules and transparent resin modules accent the uniqueness of the collection.

Backstage at Marni - the accessories # 3.   The Sandals are exaggerated fringe or leather woven sandals with wide soles.   The platform sandals have high heels and are in woven leather or set on wood.

Backstage at Marni - the accessories # 4. 
  The bags are foldable color coordinated squares made out of calfskin with contrasting patent leather handles. Alternatively, bucket bags in leather with geometrical intarsia or patent leather and raffia are woven into chequered patterns.

Seen at Marni # 1. Velvet magazine’s eccentric editor in chief, Michela Gattermayer.  She is wearing a classic white linen Bagutta shirt with turquoise leather pants made to order by Cut on her own design.

Seen at Marni # 2 – a detail.   A detail of Michela’s lucky bracelets all gifts from friends over the years.

Seen at Marni.  Architect, Matteo Thun.

Seen backstage at Marni.   American Vogue’s Anna Wintour looks at the polaroids with Marni’s creative director, Conuelo Castiglioni.

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Wednesday, September 29, 2010

Milano: the balaklava trend

Milan – the Balaklava trend # 1- One Size fits all.  The One Size Fits All exhibition at Palazzo Morando, a project by Ivano Atzori, with the cooperation of the City of Milan, enlists influential names in today’s fashion world to interpret an object/icon dear to the artist himself: the ski mask. With this collaboration, Atzori uses his past as Italy’s most well known vandal, as a graffiti artist, previously known as Dumbo, to stoke the creativity of the fashion world.   "Fashion is not only transformation or disguise but also a transfer of identity,” explains the Minister of Culture for the City of Milan, Massimiliano Finazzer Flory. “These ski masks play with all three of these roles. The ambiguity of these head coverings is ripe terrain for artwork because they evoke feelings of psychological uneasiness as well as physical security. We wanted to support this project because, in this case, fashion is rivaling the gaze, the eyes: a ski mask can hide a face, but not the eyes that continue to seduce, to entice and to interrogate us.”
Above: ski masks designed by, Neil Barrett, Vivienne Westwood and Bernhard Willhelm.

The Balaklava trend - One Size fits all.   A ski mask designed by Neil Barrett.  The exhibition was divided into two elements: the ski masks themselves, on individual pedestals and fifteen large format photographs portraying the ski masks, intimate and guarded images that succeeded in being romantic and provocative at the same time. 

The Balaklava trend - seen at Marni.  Art critic and author, Mariuccia Casadio, wrote the One Size Fits All’s exhibition text.

The Balaklava trend # 2 - seen at Fornasetti.  The Lux Gstaad chair  by Fornasetti, is the result of a collaboration between Barnaba Fornasetti and Anne Lux for a chalet in Gstaad.  The back of the chair depicts a young woman wearing a knitted Balaklava.

The Balaklava trend #  3 – seen at Missoni. Invited by Angela Missoni, Aldo Lanzini attends the Missoni fashion show with a group of 30 people wearing his crochets for faces (inspired by the revolutionary balaklavas), from the serie: the eyes are there where they see, the things are there where they are seen. Aldo Lanzini starts his research on crochet techniques as a sculptural practice in 1995, investigating the practices of the making as acts of construction of the everyday life. He is currently presenting a solo exhibition, The drop at Le Case D' Arte in Milan.
Above.  Aldo Lanzini, one of his crochet balaklavas and Nicoletta Branzi. Pin It

Milano: Larusmiani - concept boutique

Larusmiani – concept boutique.   The new Larusmiani concept boutique on Via Montenapoleone, located in the completely renovated historic store opened in 1954, is the ideal shop-window where an exclusive series of rooms house the brand’s men’s and women’s creations in an atmosphere of refined elegance.  The boutique was designed by internationally renowned British architect, David Collins.  And, from an encounter between Liborio Capizzi, Gianfranco Ferre’s right-hand man for sixteen years, and Guglielmo Miani, representative of the third generation Larusmiani company and creative mind behind the brand’s relaunch comes the first women’s collection.  The women’s collection draws on the brand’s men’s tailoring sartorial tradition to offer sophisticated, exclusive elegance, for a style that is not fashion led but enhances femininity through the reworking of unusual masculine details. 
Above.  The Larusmiani muse and artist, Natasha Zupan is photographed besides a classic evening trouser suit, the shirt, in white crisp organza, has a pleated front bib.

Larusmiani concept boutique – a corner.    A painting by Larusmiani’s muse, the Mallorcan based artist, Natasha Zupan graces the first floor of the concept store.  Natasha always paints over fabrics and in this case five Larusmiani fabrics were used to create the Coniunctio. Vita, painting, especially for the boutique, which represents the union between a man and a woman.  Natasha was jet setting over to London for the opening of her show in London’s B.Hive Gallery.
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Milano: Fornasetti - Home Fragrance collection

Fornasetti – Home Fragrance collection. The Fornasetti Home Fragrance collection was launched during Milan Fashion Week.  Largely indifferent to the vagaries of fashion, it was the suggestion of an interior fragrance that turned Barnaba Fornasetti on to the idea of developing a scent.  To capture the essence of Fornasetti he turned to Olivier Polge, the master perfumer.   Polge visited the Fornasetti family house in Milan and together, he and Barnaba explored the aromas of the house and its gardens, registering significant herbs and the woods of the interior and Fornasetti designed objects.  Thyme and lavender came to occupy the top tier of notes, orris and cedar wood the middle, and ethereal notes in the base, including incense, tolu balsam, and labdanum, were used to represent the dream-like dimension of Fornasetti’s graphic poetry.  The resulting scent Otto, the eighth variation to be developed, is the olfactory portrait of a brand that is timeless, and that transcends gender and fashion.
Above. The Room Fragrance and Scent Sphere which has three individual perfume delivery systems.

Fornasetti – Home Fragrance collection.   The Incense Box contains forty sticks, made by the Tokyo based, Nippon Kodo company, which goes back to the early 16th century, when the highly skilled producers of fine incense supplied the Japanese court.
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Tuesday, September 28, 2010

Milano: Maliparmi Spring/Summer 2011 collection

Maliparmi Spring/Summer 2011 collection.  Just off the Piazza San Babila, Palazzo Visconti was once again the venue for the Maliparmi presentation.  Through different eyes is the underlying concept shaping the new Spring-Summer 2011 collection, called, “Garden of Diversity”.  In the words of the brand’s artistic director, Silvia Bisconti, “We’re not seeking something new, we’re learning to look through new eyes at what already exists, discovering the right balance between tradition and innovation”.  In the main room, six special structures support six outfits from the collection, culminating in a spherical head, onto which six women’s faces are projected. Not models, but young actresses, like Caterina Bajetta, above. Real women all different and with their own special expressiveness. In a performance of gesture, they wear the same garments that are presented in a static version, interpreted and given real form.

Seen at Maliparmi.  The Maliparmi sets where designed by director, Marco Pozzi whose film, Maledimiele was presented at the Venice Film Festival and tells the story of Sara, a teenage girl who sinks, slowly but inevitably, into the abyss of anorexia.

Maliparmi – Tessuto della Memoria. Now reaching its third season, the Tessuto della Memoria concept, which uses prints from the past rediscovered today and recreates through patchwork memories held and reinterpreted. In the words of Malìparmi's president, Annalisa Paresi, “When I saw all the fabrics kept in the archive, I thought it was a real shame to leave them unused.”  Along with the iconic tunic dress, a top and a jersey skirt is a shopping bag available in two sizes. All the items in the collection are available, as always, until sold out, because every time a fabric patchwork is made it creates a new garment that cannot be reproduced.  

Seen at Maliparmi.   London based record producer and talent scout, Charlie Rapino and P.R. Francesca Ballini Richards.

Maliparmi – The surreal garden. In the surreal garden, the Garden of Diversity, the spirit of the collection, was the setting for Malìparmi’s shoes, bags and jewels.

Seen at Maliparmi. Gemma Richards peeks through the leaves of the tunnel leading to the Maliparmi presentation.

Seen at Maliparmi. In the kitchen of Palazzo Visconti, Neapolitan caterer, Sandra Calvo and her brother-in-law the set designer, Sergio Colantuoni. Sandra whose catering company is called Soup, was inspired by the theme of the collection, Garden of Diversity to create a menu of amuse bouches awith herbs and flowers.

Maliparmi – a detail.  A detail of the amuse bouches, Penna al Profumo di Origano catered by Sandra Calvo of Soup which sit on a perspex tray inlaid with fresh flowers.

Maliparmi - Bijoux Capsule # 1.
A small, yet striking new project, called Bijoux Capsule, a collection in mini format that’s part of the larger Maliparmi Spring/Summer 2011 collection.  It comprises of three trompe l’oeil t-shirts with three different hand printed and embroidered bags. Each t-shirt is complemented with the same bag and a beaded sandal available in two versions, classic flat or with heel.

Maliparmi - Bijoux Capsule # 2.  The kitten heel sandal that is sold as part of the Bijoux Capsule package.

Seen at Maliparmi.  Student, Virgina da Sie in the Tessuto della Memoria room.

Seen at Maliparmi. Fashion Illustrated’s editor in chief, Fabbiana Giacomotti relaxed, in between shows, in the courtyard of Palazzo Visconti.
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