Sunday, February 26, 2012

Milan: Seen in Corso Como 10

Milan: Seen in Corso Como 10 – Siwa – bags #1. The Japanese paper (washi) maker Onao, located in an area in Japan boasting a washi-making history spanning 1000 years, and industrial designer Naoto Fukasawa have teamed together to create the Siwa series. Fukasawa discerned that the special texture of Naoron, a paper developed by Onao that doesn’t tear easily, emerged when the paper was crumpled, and suggested designs for everyday goods that harnessed this. The name Siwa is both a reversing of the characters in the word washi (wasi), and a word meaning, “crinkle” in Japanese. As with leather goods, these washi products are lovingly individually crafted.
The Book: in the foreground, the book Re-Cycle, Strategie per L’architettura La Citta e il Pianeta curated by Pippo Ciorra and published by Electa.

Milan: Seen in Corso Como 10 – Carmina Campus - bags # 2.  Carmina Campus, whose slogan is, Not Charity, Just Work is the brand founded in 2006 by Ilaria Venturini Fendi creating handbags, jewels and furniture out of reused materials. It is a project of sustainable creativity proposing small but effective solutions to cope with the present crises, in the belief that it cannot be successfully dealt with without considering its threefold aspect, economical, social and environmental.  Working only with already-existing materials either living their second life or unused but out of production/consumption cycles makes the Carmina Campus’ philosophy and is the result of Ilaria’s shift towards a sustainable creative project endowed with different values.   Many bags are thought to address specific topics such as pollution from cars and airplanes, water wastage, refused waste. The collaboration with ITC, International Trade Centre has enabled the brand to develop projects in Cameroon, Kenya and Uganda, therefore Not Charity, Just Work.

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Saturday, February 25, 2012

Milan: : Maliparmi Autumn/Winter 2012/2013 collection.

Milan: Maliparmi Autumn/Winter 2012/2013 collection. On the grand staircase of Palazzo Visconti cardboard cutout models welcomed press and buyers to the Maliparmi Autumn/Winter 2012/2013 collection. Identity is the title of the collection. Maliparmi narrates its identity through a series of the most representative silhouettes that from season to season have defined the brand’s style.


Maliparmi. Silvia Bisconti, artistic director of Maliparmi explains, “For this new collection we wanted to show the outside world what we see as the core of our identity.  We’ve chosen to do this through the icons that over the years have become true symbols of our style.”  Annalisa Paresi, president of Maliparmi adds, “Our identity is the most precious element of our heritage.  Not losing sight of where we started, the roots of our growth, has allowed us to flourish, to look to the future with vitality and a confidence based on solid foundations.”

Maliparmi – a detail. The silhouette for the collection focuses on the skirt, light yet heavy, real or with a trompe l’oeil effect, it’s a dress that looks like a top and a skirt. 
Note: the layering of fabrics, quilt, wool, silk and tweed.

Maliparmi.   A video pays homage to Marol Parisi, mother of Annalisa, Maliparmi’s president; the founding spirit and inspiration of the company.  With her style, intense creativity, love of travel, interest in other cultures and burning passion she has shaped the roots of Maliparmi.

Maliparmi.  The Neapolitan caters Gemma Forsano and Sandra Calvo of Soup, show their identity on their chef hats, Gemma sports the bay of Naples and Sandra it’s iconic patron Saint Gennaro, as well as, evil eye charms.

Maliparmi. This slow-cooked mini Parmigiano soufflé with sautéed wild mushrooms and parsley was one of the mini delicacies inspired by the Identity of Maliparmi’s heritage – Italy, India and Morocco.

Maliparmi.  Master events designer and stylist Sergio Colantuoni created a fresh display for the Maliparmi collection in Palazzo Visconti. Cutout cardboard models and videos displayed the clothes and accessories.  The central focal point in the frescoed salone was a video of two elevators one going up and one going down.

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Milan: Corridors and Stairs Photo Gallery – Bizarre, Colorquake, Flamboyant, Personalities Allure exhibition.

 Venice: Palazzo Fortuny - March 10th - June 26

Milan:  Corridors and Stairs Photo Gallery – Bizarre, Colorquake, Flamboyant, Personalities Allure exhibition.  For Fashion week, Corridor and Stairs presents the exhitbition "Bizzare, Colorquake, Flamboyant, Personalities, Allure" a special preview of the Diana Vreeland after Diana Vreeland exhibition that will be held at Palazzo Fortuny in Venice from March 10 to June 26, curated by Maria Luisa Frisa and Judith Clark and commissioned by Lisa Immordino Vreeland.

Corridors and Stairs Photo Gallery – Bizarre, Colorquake, Flamboyant, Personalities Allure exhibition.  For this event, Mauro Grifoni, who is also one of the sponsors of the Venetian exhibition, has produced a limited edition of T-shirts a tribute to Diana Vreeland and bearing the five words that are the title of the show.

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Milan: Etro Autumn/Winter 2012/13 collection

Milan: Etro Autumn/Winter 2012/13 collection. Veronica Etro’s autumn winter Etro collection is named Lady Paisley and was inspired by the iconic textile design her father Gimmo made famous in the 1960s and is highly associated with the label. The collection fuses tradition with innovation and history with contemporary desire.  The look is resolutely feminine and newly seductive, yet charged with dandy Edwardian elements borrowed from menswear.

Etro. Paisley, taken in its most classical guise is the star.  A unique series of treatments, from laser-cut patchworks to decorative trompe-l’oeil effects elevate the pattern above its traditional form.  When laser-cut the Paisley prints are inserted onto black tulle bases or sheer netting to give the impression of body tattoos.
Note: the peplum leather belt, which offers a new form of layering over snug pencil skirts.

Stiffened jackets and coats feature molded bodies.

 A tweed jacket is refreshed with leather ruffled “lace”, a take on the Edwardian dandy.

Etro – Make-up.  Charlotte Tilbury designed the make-up with M.A.C. products. “The make-up is boyish, late eighteenth century inspired and it’s all about the brow and the architecture of the face. Handsome esthetics. I used a coffee pencil all around the eyes and concealer on the mouth, though ten of the models have a red/chocolate tone  lipstick called Full Chocolate.”

Etro – hair. Eugene Souleiman, one of the most influential British hair stylists of today was inspired by Edwardian memories for the hairstyle.  He uses gel, applied with a brush to squash down the roots to make the S shape more pronounced.  “It’s my interpretation of an old classic, it’s more sculptural and equestrian.”

Gel is applied thickly with a brush.

Hair and make-up.

Etro – Accessories # 1. Micro patterned jacquards are inspired by men’s ties, and offer a graphic touch. Gunmetal jewelry, such as oversized crystal necklaces, are worn over sweaters.

Etro – Accessories # 2. Shoes are either simple satin pumps with lace up ankles or pointy toe booties with tie-fabric or ostrich skin inserts.


Etro – Accessories # 3. Handbags are reduced to essential sizes that are carried by hand. Rigid treasure boxes are covered in skate skin, while hard frame bags are covered in opaque crocodile print leather or in a patchwork of bright lizard.

Etro.  Paisley inspired tulle intarsias are inserted in cady stretch dresses, which are strategically placed to enhance the body’s curves.

In tune with the collection, the Etro water bottles also have Paisley labels.
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Friday, February 24, 2012

Milano: Valentino boutique opening

Milan: Valentino boutique opening. The new restructured boutique on the elegant Via Montenapoleone, celebrates the 50th anniversary of Valentino. The creative directors have launched a special project that combines passed and present with dazzling continuity.  Their style is sleek and sharp. The collection  of ready to wear and accessories, includes iconic outwear made of double cashmere and wool cloth: the cape with mysterious allure, the cool fitted pea coat, the flowing single, or double breasted coat, the tunic-poncho, and the boxy top worn over a mini skirt.  Each is made in a different animal print: giraffe, jaguar, tiger, cheetah, zebra and panther. Working with utmost lightness Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli establish their vision of contemporary style in an iconic moment for the maison and they bring it to life without nostalgia, focusing on the evocative power of unusual combinations.

Valentino boutique opening.  Creative directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli with British architect David Chipperfield.  Mr. Chipperfield’s nomination as director the13th International Venice Biennale of Architecture, to be held at the end of August in Venice arrived while he was working on the Valentino boutique project.

Valentino boutique opening. A detail of the staircase made in walnut. Couture savoire faire is the most striking element in Valentino’s DNA.  This also refers to the close relationship that they have established with their customers.  For the restructuring of the Milan boutique, Mr. Chipperfield interpreted this aspect through the concept of a palazzo, working on a monumental scale (the Valentino maison is intimately associated with Rome, a city known for its monumental scale) and reducing it to a precious, subtle nuance. “Mr. Chipperfield combines the past with a contemporary sense, imagining a space that embraces the future and the past.  Majestic and sleek, it has a grand, calm and solemn sense about it. After all, we believe that having a heritage with a glorious past is the true luxury.” Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli.

Valentino boutique opening. Just as refined as a Valentino red carpet gown these warm exquisite and delicious chips of Jerusalem artichoke topped with artichoke cream, melted in the mouth and stimulated all the taste buds, they were created Da Vittorio.
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Thursday, February 23, 2012

MIlano: Luisa Beccaria A/W 2012 collection

Milan: Luisa Beccaria A/W 2012 collection. Backstage Luisa Beccaria poses with some of her models. The Luisa Beccaria autumn/winter collection is centered around  the conceptual contrast of lightness and structure.  The focus is on the real woman, who works but can still dream.  She is a woman of today, ambiguous and even controversial at times, very much in charge of her own time, but also ethereal and dreamful.

Nathalie Dompei and Caroline Lowe

Anastasia Pavlova

American Vogue's editor at large Hamish Bowles, his book Vogue Weddings is due out in November.

Umberta Beretta

Allegra Bossi Pucci and her Jagd Terrier Holly with TV personality Filippa Lagerback.

Luisa Beccaria.  A light lunch was catered by Cipriani of Harry's Bar fame.  Arrigo Cipriani's daughter Carmela toast guests with a Bellini. she is an expert cook in her own right and holds cooking courses for children, and also writes children's cookbooks.

Delicious meat balls in tomato sauce with a cherry tomato.

Former rock star Jo Squillo, now TV Moda's anchor takes a rest from interviews and enjoys the famous Cipiani's Pasta e Fagioli or pasta and bean soup.

Luisa Beccaria's beautiful daughter Lucilla Bonaccorsi works with her mother with the designs.

Luisa Beccaria. Light but enriched with cut-out and embroidered tulle and pleated organza filigree, the silhouette of her eveningwear are flowing, but also give a nod to the floaty grace, the shapes, and the powder-pinks and mauve's of degas' dancers.
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Milan: seen around town

talented designer Antonio Monfreda and Jewelry designer, Delfina Delettrez Fendi
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Milan: Fausto Puglisi Fall/Winter 2012 collection.

Milan: Fausto Puglisi Fall/Winter 2012 collection.  Sicily, the land that saw the birth of some of the most important Italians from the history and the made in Italy; Fausto Puglisi's story unravels between Messina and Los Angeles via New York where he meets from the beginning the admiration of the USA fashion system. It's thank to one of this trips that he gets in touch with the Gotha of the Hollywood stardom.

His creativity plays with the most basic shapes reaching the sumptuous peak of his "one-of-a-kind" dresses, created for mega stardom and for the most exclusive international boutiques.
Above: Fausto Puglisi is photographed with models inspired by Grecian-Roman cheerleaders, the outfits vaunt handmade embroideries, crystal star-bursts, metal and gold thread for the modern urban warrior.

Fausto Puglisi. Puglisi’s vision is intense and ultra-sartorial: whether it is a simple dress cut as a t-shirt or the latest outfits commissioned by Beyoncé for the promotion of her "4" album. 

 His signature styles are the color block, the bias cut, the metallic applications and the crystal embroideries with a 3D effect. 

In his vocabulary the words desire, body, fitness, sexuality, vertigo recurs over and over.

Fausto Puglisi. Puglisi uses traditional fabrics, such as crepe, jersey, duchesse. His fashion wants to be an "ode” to the American classics mixed with the most emotional Italian couture attitude.
Above: the detail of a classic jacket made with the finest shocking pink wool jersey from British manufacturer Laurent Garigue who has been supplying the designer for the past eight years.

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