Saturday, February 26, 2011

Milano: New trendy restaurant - Giacomo Arengario

New restaurant – Giacomo Arengario.  The spectacular view from the terrace of the new In restaurant, Giacomo Arengario, which is located on the third floor of the new Museo del Novecento in Piazza del Duomo. The restaurant was designed by Roberto Peregalli and Laura Sartori Rimini in the 1930s style of the Fascist building.  

New restaurant – Giacomo Arengario.   Giacomo Bulleri offers classic cuisine specializing in fish. The Tuscan chef is already well known to the Milanese trendies with his first restaurant in Milan, Da Giacomo


Lunch at Giacomo Arengario.   Art collector Laura Mattioli and Marina Prada.

 Lunch at Giacomo Arengario.   Anteprima’s creative director Izumi Ogino and her husband Masaaki.  Anteprima held its fashion show in the tent set up right in the middle of Piazza del Duomo last Thursday.

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Milano:Gianfranco Ferre Fall/Winter 2011-2012 collection

Backstage: Gianfranco Ferre Fall/Winter 2011-2012 collection.  Three looks from the new Gianfranco Ferre Fall/Winter 2011-2012 collection designed by Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi. The collection which transforms light into opalescence and sensuous atmospheres with constant chromatic/materic references, sublimating the principle of sartorial perfection in shapes and structures that reflect a feel for the architecture of Frank Lloyd Wright.

Seen at Gianfranco Ferre.  The new president of Gianfranco Ferre, Ahmed Sankari and it’s CEO Michela Piva.

 Backstage: Gianfranco Ferre. A three flap fronted coat has a very architectonical feel.

Seen at Gianfranco Ferre.   Ferre designer Tommaso Aquilano and the Daily Telegraph’s Hilary Alexander.

Backstage:Gianfranco Ferre.   Ferre designer Roberto Rimondi greets Vogue Japan’s Anna dello Russo and fashion blogger Brian Boy.  ADL is dressed all in Prada and Brian Boy is wearing red and orange leopard print H & M pants and a trench coat by Olivier Theyskens.

A detail.  Anna dello Russo’s Prada jeweled orange clutch bag and fox fur stole.  Note the silver nails.

Backstage: Gianfranco Ferre – make-up.  The make-up was created by Peter Philips who is the global creative director for Chanel make-up.  Inspired by the 1960’s Philips used shinny black eyeliner and lots of mascara.  

Backstage: Gianfranco Ferre – a detail. A detail of a pocket, note the metal bar on the slit.

 Backstage: Gianfranco Ferre – a detail.   A detail of a drop waisted white fur coat with glossy silver leather piping.

Backstage: Gianfranco Ferre. Shoes and boots are supremely feminine and sexy.  Note the metal architectonical detail up the side and the subtle white two-tone leather.

Backstage: Gianfranco Ferre. Models catch up on sleep whenever they can.

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Milano: Antonio Marras Women's Fall/Winter 2011-2012 collection

Backstage: Antonio Marras Fall/Winter 2011-2012 collection. “I would like to dedicate this collection to my mother.  If not now, when?  My mother, who embodies all women.  From Nannina to Nannarella.”

 Antonio Marras.   “On Sardinia, a matriarchal island, women represent stability, certainty, permanent values.  The idea of a mother is radically reformulated in the culture of Sardinia.  More than a woman and a mother, she embodies belonging, having roots in a place, the land, the home.  She is the nourisher, guardian of the past and overseer of the present.”

Backstage: Antonio Marras.  Antonio Marras is interviewed in front of the mood board.  The collection is dedicated to his Mamma.  The red lips are a tribute to the bright red lipstick she still wears today.

Backstage: Antonio Marras.   “And, on the day I first went to see a film, The Miracle of Marcelino at the parish cinema, my mother wore a floral dress.  I still cherish the memory.”

Backstage: Antonio Marras.  Chuncky, shrunken crochet sweaters.

Backstage: Antonio Marras.  “My mother together with a seamstress, her loyal ally, recycles and remodels men’s old coats to turn them into elegant skirt suits.”

Backstage: Antonio Marras.  Sailor suit inspired knitwear, the white starched collars are reminiscent of the white collars on Italian black school smocks.

Backstage: Antonio Marras.  VIP hair stylist Eugene Souleiman, visible from afar for his inseparable bowler hat describes the hairstyle “The hair is very chic and elegant and has an almost masculine quality in the front and a romantic chignon at the back.”

Backstage: Antonio Marras.  The hairstyle.

Backstage: Antonio Marras.  A herringbone tweed hound’s-tooth jacket is re-restructured and embellished with sequins and feathers.

Backstage: Antonio Marras.  VIP make-up artist Lisa Butler created the make-up using M.A.C. PRO products.

Backstage: Antonio Marras.  The make-up is minimal, Lisa Butler used no foundation or powder just concealer on the face.  The emphasis is on the lips where she used two colors, a classic bright red on the upper lip and a bright orange on the lower lip, which was extended to give the impression of a smile.
“My mother in her Sunday best and holding a crocodile handbag, with a pale face and red, red lipstick as she leaves church after mass.”

Antonio Marras.  “She is very elegant on my first day at school.  She, the loveliest of all, and me in a black school smock with a white starched collar; I was terrified, and intoxicated by her perfume.”

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Palazzo Marino: Metier d’Arte, Designer Fashion exhibition.

Palazzo Marino: Metier d’Arte, Designer Fashion exhibition. The exhibition at Palazzo Marino, Metier d’Arte, Designer Fashion (until March 1st) celebrates the passion and dedication of the master embroiderer Pino Grasso, and a lifetime dedicated to the quest for beauty and perfection. From the late fifties onwards, the Milan based atelier of Pino Grasso (who today works alongside his daughter Raffaella) saw the comings and goings of the greatest names in Italian fashion: Schuberth, Fabiani, Lancetti, Veneziani, and later Valentino, Armani, Dolce & Gabbana, Gianfranco Ferre, to name but a few.  The partnership with Valentino lasted for many seasons.  The Archives of Pino Grasso tell a touching and beautiful tale of Italian fashion: over ten thousand samples made over the course of fifty years’ work that represent an excellence impossible to trace anywhere.
Above: Pino Grasso with a jacket embroidered for Valentino, Fall/Winter 1990/1991 Haute Couture collection.

Metier d’Arte, Designer Fashion exhibition.  Mila Schon, Spring Summer 2009 collection. Cape in overlapping ivory rubber scales.

 Metier d’Arte, Designer Fashion exhibition. Valentino, Spring/Summer 2004  Haute Couture collection.   Jewel jacket with pink and mauve crocodile base embroidered with floral patterns and peau d’ange coral branches, rhinestones, and cylindrical beads.
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Skitsch: Isabella Tonchi – Fall/Winter 2011/2012 Collection.

Skitsch: Isabella Tonchi – Fall/Winter 2011/2012 Collection.  In the Skitsch design store, Isabella Tonchi presented a small collection. The inspiration for her fall/Winter 2011/2012 collection derives from a boudoir atmosphere turning the finest lingerie into romantic outerwear. 

Isabella Tonchi.  A detail of Isabella’s boudoir inspired collection. Cashmere crochet and felt tweed patchwork tunics and tops paired with skiing pants and ice-skating skirts, feminine Redingote coats in cashmere double mixed with quilted nylon in romantic textures, and fitted see-through lace sweaters in silk and cashmere are some of the key items of her collection.

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Thursday, February 24, 2011

Milano: Max Mara Autumn/Winter 2011-2012 Collection

Backstage: Max Mara Autumn/Winter 2011-2012 Collection. Backstage Max Maras fashion director Laura Lusardi greets Kathy Holmes and Nicola Gerber Maramotti after the show.

Backstage: Max Mara.  The classic British country look becomes urban and sophisticated. Traditional shapes and fabrics reinterpreted and transformed by new technologies and unexpected combinations.

Backstage: Max Mara. Marethe, Madeleine and Josephine.


Backstage: Max Mara.  Make-up artist, Tom Pecheux is photographed with Sigrid. The make-up, Tom explains is “Monochromatic with lots of peachy colors. Lots of power to the eyebrow, I used beige eye shadow and a taupe crease line, grey eyeliner under the eyes and many coats of black mascara.”

Backstage: Max Mara.   Max Mara’s creative director, Ian Griffiths makes sure that the models are perfectly dressed before going out onto the runway. He is photographed with Maude who is wearing a white wool hooded jacket. Parkas, duffle coats and bikers jackets create new silhouettes with short trapeze-shaped skirts and fur appliqués, zips, buckles and fringing.

Backstage: Max Mara.  A mohair long woolen coat is inspired by the kilt.  The tartan is illuminated by embroidery.

Backstage: Max Mara.  And so the kilt becomes a bustier long evening dress.

Backstage: Max Mara.  Max Mara’s CEO and president Luigi Maramotti came backstage with his two children Costanza and Elia.





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Milano: The Vogue Talents Corner

Palazzo Morando - The Vogue Talents Corner.  Fourteen fashion designers from all over the world animate the exhibition The Vogue Talents Corner for four days at Palazzo Morando.  An eclectic and innovative scouting project of Vogue Italia and, whose purpose is to use e-commerce to give exposure to the creativity of emerging talents on the international fashion scene.
Above: New Talent, J.W. Anderson, Giorgio Armani, Anna Wintour, Donatella Versace and Jonathan Newhouse.

Hostess of the event, Vogue Italia’s editor in chief, Franca Sozzani greets designer Antonio Marras.  “Capturing the new, recognizing young talent, promoting research are a guarantee of vitality in fashion.  And it’s a thrilling ongoing commitment for Vogue.” declares Sozzani.

 New Talent: Sara Battaglia comes from a family of artists and has always had a passion for design and fashion.  At six she stole some of her mother’s fabric and created her first handbag. Today she collaborates with numerous Italian brands.

New Talent - Sara Battaglia. A detail of Sara’s jewelry, note the glamorous gold nails.

  New talent - Sara Battaglia. A jeweled clutch bag.

New Talent - Sara Battaglia. Leather belt and purse.

Sara Battaglia, Bianca Brandolini d'Adda and Giovanna Battaglia

New Talent - Sara Battaglia. A tiara.

Duran Duran's Nick Rhodes

Suzy Menkes

  FWD's Godfrey Deeny and Bergdorf Goodman's, Linda Fargo

New Talent – J.W. Anderson. Irish born, Jonathan William Anderson moved to Washington at an early age to study at the Actor’s Studio, an experience that left him with a fascination for costume design. After graduating from London College of Fashion, he presented his first men’s collection, where he used real insects for the jewelry accessories.  His first women’s collection came out in 2010.  His style is characterized by a taste for the mystical and for the noir mood.  His esthetic is intensely dramatic and theatrical, with great attention to the mix of fabrics and materials.

New Talent - J.W. Anderson. A detail of his pleated panel trouser, part of the wrongs and rights, rights and wrongs.

New Talent - J.W. Anderson. An outfit from the womenwear collection made with recolored silk tie fabrics, note the pleated panel skirt worn at the front and the lace-ups.

New Talent - J.W. Anderson. A pair of two-tone leather lace-ups with silicone base, the fur is straightened Mongolian sheepskin.

Margherita Maccapani Missoni

Sak Fifth Avenue's Terron Schaefer and  model Simonetta Gianfelici

Sabrina Querci is the managing director of the Elio Ferraro vintage and design store in Milan.  She is wearing an YSL 1970s silk shirt, Celine brocade trousers, a cape made by Givenchy in 2000 and is holding a1980s Gianni Versace clutch bag.

Leo Dell'Orco and Giorgio Armani

New Talent – Jen Kao. Native of Los Angeles, Jen Kao studied art at New York University and fashion design at Parsons School.  Fascinated by 3-D, her first collection on the New York runways, in 2008, astounded insiders with its sartorial innovation and experimental techniques in the assembly of leathers and knits. Its main feature is the contrast between architectonic construction and fluid drapery. She defines her style as “easy dramatics”.  Her clothes are both sexy and comfortable.

New Talent - Jen Kao. A detail of a dress from the Spring/Summer 2011 collection. Note the string macrame' "corset".

New Talent - Jen Kao. 

New Talent - Jen Kao.  Jen Kao with Dsquared's Dan and Dean Caten

Corso Como's Carla Sozzani and Vogue Italia's Sara Maino

New Talent – Caterina Gatta. Roman born Caterina Gatta studied fashion at Central Saint Martins College in London and costume science at La Sapienza University in Rome. She created her brand in 2008.   Her clothes are one-of-a-kind pieces realized with vintage fabrics from famous designer names.  “My passion for fashion”, the designer explains, “comes from the need to try out new roads in couture, to get closer to younger tastes”.  Her clothes are sold exclusively in New York at the Change of Season shop and at the luxury boutique P.S. Post Script Couture.

New Talent - Caterina Gatta.  A quilted flowered short cape with train.

Wait and See's  Uberta zambelletti and landscape gardener Stefano Baccari

The Daily Telegraph's Hilary Alexander

Journalist Angelo Flaccavento and Maria Luisa Frisa, author and director of the fashion design course degree at IUAV University of Venice. 

P.R.s Karla Otto and Emanuela Schmeidler

New Talent – Maria Francesca Pepe.  London based, Maria Francesca Pepe has degrees from the Istituto Marangoni of Milan, the Royal College of Art and Central Saint Martins. After numerous prestigious collaborations, she presented her first collection of footwear and jewelry in 2007.  The style that the designer describes as “jewelry wear” is a fusion of accessory and garment, where the jewel becomes an integral structural part of the outfit.   The collection is entirely realized by Italian artisans, but the inspiration is pure London avant-garde.

 New Talent - Maria Francesca Pepe. A detail of her Jewelry Wear.

 New Talent - Maria Francesca Pepe. Barbed wire and crucifix inspired necklaces in gold and pearls.

W magazine's editor in chief Stefano Tonchi, designer Lapo Elkann and Bianca Brandolini d'Adda 

Journalist Cesare Cunaccia and Marta Brivio Sforza 

Fashionista Anna Dello Russo, wearing David Kamo and Yoox Goup's founder and CEO Federico Marchetti "Joining forces with Vogue and and their respective excellence in fashion editorial and e-commerce is a far-reaching way to promote emerging talent. Together we have created a virtual shopping window to the world allowing young designers to instantly connect with an international customer base.” He explains.

New Talent – Burak Uyan. German by origin Burak Uyan studied at the Fashion Institute of Vienna.   He lives in Paris where he worked for Givenchy and Giambattista Valli for whom he became creative director for both the apparel and accessories collections.   He has always been inspired by the innovative design of Helmut Lang, particularly for his graphic, minimalist style and experimental use of materials.  In 2009 he founded his own brand of footwear with creative partner Srdjan Prodanovic.  The glamorous architectonic style of his creations, which never compromise wearability and comfort, has quickly launched the brand in the fashion world.


 New Talent – Burak Uyan

 New Talent – Burak Uyan
Paola Manfrin 
Vogue Italia's Carlo Ducci and Luca Stoppini

 New Talent –  Zou You.  Chinese designer Zou You launched his line in 2006.   He studied fashion and design in Beijing and has won numerous awards in his country, and is considered one of the most promising Chinese designers.  The style of his creations is kaleidoscopic and polyhydric, leaving ample freedom to those who wear them to create their own personal “fashion body cult”.

New Talent - Zou You. A detail of a collar on a jacket. 

New Talent - Zou You.  A leather jacket.
New Talent - Zou You.  A detail of the leather jacket featured above.  Note the hem of the jacket is the line "Produced by nature whereas the stitched seams are the "lines" made by man." Zou You explains.

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