Thursday, January 14, 2010


Bespoke Tailor - N.H Sartoria.   In the center of Milan is the seat of N.H. Sartoria, N.H. which derives from the Latin Nobil Homo and translates as Nobleman: two letters that express an indication of a style that gives singleness to the tradition of a custom made suit.  In this relaxed atmosphere, the gentleman can plan his entire “trousseau” including shirts, ties and shoes, as well as a wide selection of classic and amusing new or vintage cufflinks.

The Jacket. The jackets, created by Master tailor Domenico Bombino, following the art of the historical tailoring tradition of the south Italian region of Puglia where the cut plays the most important role, take form naturally on the body, without requiring internal structures which usually gives a stiff look. And, above all, they make one forget one is wearing a jacket and tie.

The “author”.   The author or creator of N.H Sartoria, a contemporary reading of traditional bespoke tailoring is Count Federico Ceschi a Santa Croce, who decided to merge in a “non-brand” a world of personal details and timeless elegance, exclusively for his friends and customers. Bespoke tailored garments have always been his greatest passion and since he met Master tailor Domenico Bombino, his dressing ideas have taken a new direction.  Here starts the professional team that joins the taste of Federico Ceschi a Santa Croce in finding and combining refined “collector’s” fabrics to the best accessories with the tailoring “maestria” of Domenico Bombino, that succeeds in turning very special fabrics into unique garments, rich of sophisticated charm.
Note: the luscious deep green velvet tie. N.H also produces special velvet ties for La Scala opera house in their signature red .

A detail.
  The interior of the Count’s jacket in true N.H. style is unsheathed and has no internal infrastructures.  The N.H. Jackets are very light to wear and fit the body perfectly by underlining any type of internal manufacturing.

The ties.
Knitted “No stitch” ties, which are reversible, seamless and extra light in cashmere or silk, are made to order and available in wide range of matching colors. On the N.H website you can also design your own sports tie choosing your background and colors, a most amusing pastime.

The shirts.  Like the suits, N.H’s shirts are not only handcrafted but also made to measure, and offer a wide range of rich fabrics and exclusive models, their main styles are:
The French style:  the collar is not supposed to be too open.
The button down style:  the model is extremely soft and comfortable.
The classic Italian style:  the collar has got an exclusive design made by N.H Couture House, which does not turn upwards and remains comfortably under the jacket’s lapels.

A detail - the morning suit. The formal suits “par excellence” are offered at N.H Couture House in light fabrics, together with striped fabrics for the trousers.   In Italy the waistcoat has to be pearl-grey.
Note: the lapels, which are the forte of N.H Sartoria.

The shoes. Just a few classic, chic, handcrafted and made-to-measure models are exclusively conceived for N. H. by Riccardo Freccia Bestetti.  As shoes reflect the style and taste of an elegant man, as well as, his clothes do, for this reason, the shoes have been designed with extreme care, in order to be personalized and made eternal.

A detail.   A corner of the atelier, where vintage cufflinks and rare books on fashion are on display on the shelves.

The cufflinks.  For the custom made shirts the cufflinks have to be unique, ironic, colored and fanciful, like these made out of hand-blown Murano glass.

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