Wednesday, October 21, 2009

MILANO FASHION: Where - When - Why - What - Who - Want ? ? ?

WHAT:    Marni show
WHERE:  Via Alserio
WHEN:     27th September
WHY:       Spring/Summer 2010 collection
WHAT: There is a new sense of ease and fluidity this season.  Natural and treated fabrics. Solid colours and polychrome designs. Geometric and floral patterns. These are the interactions in the Spring/Summer 2010  Marni collection.

 BACKSTAGE MARNI – the make-up.   The make-up was created by Tom Pecheux. Mat skin with washes of rose plum is very sculptural and looks like a glazed piece of pottery. Bohemian and effortless.  The lips are stained plum with focus in the center, a bit like a modern day 1920s shape.

BACKSTAGE MARNI – the make-up.    The tools of the trade.

BACKSTAGE MARNI – the hair.    The hairstyle was created by Paul Hanlon using two mismatched printed silk scarves.  It is very simple, effortless, easy, almost undone and deconstructed.

Two models flirt with the photographers.

BACKSTAGE MARNI – the it bag. Soft folded nappa bags. Oversized metal and leather covered frames finished with large boules on satchels or piped box bags. Flat, almost one-dimensional stencilled cut-out bags.  All are strong elements of the collection.

BACKSTAGE MARNI – the accessories. Depth and movement are defined by the unexpected combinations of material, colour and design, structural elements and decorative detailing. The whole collection is illuminated by big petal earrings in oxidised horn, wood and crystal stones or leather flowers like golden-edged parchment. Wood and resin make up the bracelets. Separate collars are  encrusted with macro-sequins and organza covered crystals.

RUNWAY MARNI – the boots. Stilettoed ankle boots with cut out toes are worn with beige short socks.

RUNWAY MARNI – the sandals. Soft leather brown, black and white deco sandals with medium heels are also worn with beige “sloppy” socks.
WANT: a pair of Marni socks, they have a knitted black line going up from the heel.

WHAT: breakfast.  Being the first show of the day, breakfast is always served. Espresso coffee is on hand as the press and buyers walk into the venue.

WHAT: breakfast.  Warm flaky croissants are stuffed with prosciutto di Parma or with jam.

WHAT: breakfast.  The freshly pressed orange juice.

BACKSTAGE MARNI – the press.  American Vogue’s Anna Wintour gets a private tour of the racks before the show from Consuelo Castiglioni.
Note: the gentleman to the right is one of the two bodyguards who protected Anna during the Milan Fashion Week.

BACKSTAGE MARNI – the press.  English Vogue
’s Alexandra Schulman.

BACKSTAGE MARNI – the VIPs.   10 Corso Como’s Carla Sozzani.

BACKSTAGE MARNI – the VIPs.  Consuelo Castiglioni
’ s daughter, Carolina.

Jewelry designer, Giorgio Vigna and Marni’s creative director, Consuelo Castiglioni.

WHAT: breakfast. 
A waiter looks smart and crisp with a white shirt, black apron and Converse sneakers.

WHAT: breakfast – a detail.  Delicious yogurt with raspberries and muesli was served in small transparent glasses.

WHO:  The Sartorialist, Scott Schuman compares photos with his blogger girlfriend, Garance Dore.

WHO:  American Vogue’s Hamish Bowles, sporting a mustache and English Vogue’s fashion editor, Charlotte Pilcher.

WHO: Superstar image director, Fabien Barron.

WHO: Japan’s WWD fashion director, Shunichi Mugita.

WHO:  American Vanity Fair’s Michael Roberts and the New York Times’s Cathy Horyn.

  Superstar fashion editor, Suzy Menkes of the International Herald Tribune and the New York Times.

WHO: Vips photographer, Mario Testino.

RUNWAY MARNI:  Printed stripes, checks and polka dots, flowers printed on tulle and lurex tweed reflect the unmistakable style of Marni. There is a sense of the modern and unexpected, a touch of the recherché.
WANT: the stripped leggings, they look so modern.

THE GRAND FINALE – MARNI: A wardrobe of textural contrasts of silk and cotton, linen and paper pressed onto fine organza.  Fabrics enriched by jacquard and devoré, linen and cotton check woven with rubber, embroideries with veiled and covered stones and suede stencil cutout motifs.

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