Friday, May 27, 2016

New York: Design - Terminal Stores - WantedDesign Manhattan



New York: Design -  Terminal Stores - WantedDesign Manhattan

WantedDesign is a platform dedicated to promoting design and fostering the international creative community. Founded in New York City in 2011 by Odile Hainaut and Claire Pijoulat, WantedDesign has established itself as a constant and staunch supporter of U.S. and international design via events, conversations, and partners and its yearly programming aims to nurture New York City’s design dialogue.
 Around the World at WantedDesign
WantedDesign has sourced the best design pioneers from around the world, including brands and creators from Argentina, Mexico, Poland, Quebec, Tunisia, Norway, France, and the Netherlands which were presented as country group exhibitions at Terminal Stores.





Around the World at WantedDesign
Ventura New York - The Dutch Edition - The Netherlands
Daniel de Bruin – The New Technology

De Bruin shows the worlds first analof 3D printer called ‘This New Technology’. 3D printing allows products to be created more swiftly and mechanical, yet De Bruin misses the aesthetic quality handmade, artisanal objects. By designing a relatively old-fashioned contraption that produces almost primitive pottery, De Bruin merges best of both worlds. The machine is powered by gravity and weights, allowing the designer to be directly involved in the printing process.

 

Around the World at WantedDesign

Ventura New York -  The Dutch Edition - The Netherlands

 Hongjie Yang -The Primitive Collection

Yang presents a cutting edge project using biotechnology. In ‘The Primitive Collection’ Yang researches the notion of luxury. Rooted in the idea of rarity, the notion of luxury traces back to the dawn of civilization, from a fascination toward objects made from laborious process or valuable materials.




Around the World at WantedDesign

Ventura New York -  The Dutch Edition - The Netherlands

Simone Post – Post-Vlisco

With a clear interest in textile design, Simone Post has evolved a passion for material adaption and technique. On show her graduation work ‘Post-Vlisco’. Vlisco is a leading producer of batik-printed fabrics for the African market. To ensure its leading position in a niche market, Vlisco removes any material from the production line that fails to meet their standards of the highest quality.  Using folding and cutting techniques, Simone Post created patterned rugs inspired by the big rolls of textile in the factory. With endless possible color combinations, a unique product is created with every rug. This way, what was once waste, now holds value. In addition, her entire process is carefully documented in a book, fully made and published by Post herself.

 

Around the World at WantedDesign
Ventura New York -  The Dutch Edition - The Netherlands

Margriet Vollenberg
Founder and Art Director Ventura Projects.

 

Around the World at WantedDesign

A Few Good Things – New Designs from Norway

“At a time when all have too much stuff, we need to rethink our approach to design.”
Paul Makovsky - curator

Anderssen and Voll presented sculptural cast-iron Ildhane candleholders and intricate Una blankets, produced in collaboration with Roros Tweed.


Around the World at WantedDesign

A Few Good Things – New Designs from Norway

Sara Skotte presented Vei ceramic tableware, designed to enhance the sensory experience of eating, and Dialog, a collection of vases in different materials.

 

Around the World at WantedDesign

A Few Good Things – New Designs from Norway

Lars Beller Fjetland and Norway’s oldest silverware producer Theodor Olsen solvvareverksted have created Monstera, a cold-forged cutlery range inspired 1950s design.


Around the World at WantedDesign

Brooklyn New York – USA

Justin Donnelly – Wave

Wave is a modular shelving system that invites users to create a customized Wave to showcase their unqiue belongings in a variety of different spaces and configurations. Justin Donnelly produces architectural designs that are inspired by geometry and driven by industrial manufacturing processes.




 Around the World at WantedDesign

Los Angeles - USA

Jooghii – French Touch

“The chair is as vibrant and mesmerizing as the combination of uplifting disco samples and heavy filters used in tracks during the heyday of the French house musical genre.”
Juliette Mutzke-Felippelli - designer

French Touch is an art chair inspired by French house music during the 1990’s, paying homage to experimental artists like Daft Punk, Cassius and Etienne de Crecy. Designed and manufactured in Los Angeles, the French Touch is composed of dichroic film applied to CNC-cut acrylic and is connected by steel bolts. Naturally interactive with light, the dichroic application is combined with puzzle-like lap joints as part of a conceptual demonstration of the way tracks during the period were produced by combining disco samples with filters to create it's distinctive sound. The construction of the chair allows a luminous color spectrum to reveal itself at every angle.



Around the World at WantedDesign

Mariem Besbes – Tunisia
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Textile designer Mariem Besbes presented The Sarj Collection, a series of seats combining traditional technics of weaving, knotting and twisting threads with industrial metallic structures. Inspired by Nomadic horse saddles originating from North Africa, the project is titled ‘Sarj’- the word for ‘Saddlery’ in Arabic.



 
Around the World at WantedDesign

The Whole Element – Poland


“The form of ESW furniture is a naturalistic study of a specific quartzite rock I have found in a forest.”
Anna Bera - designer

The aim of the project was to create a functional piece of furntirue bringing a fragment of natural landscape indoors. Due to its dynamic nature, the irregular solid, inspired by the trigonal crystal system, changes completely its visual aspect depending on light and perspective.


Around the World at WantedDesign

Espina Corona – Argentina

Probably the plural formation and global observation capacity gave the Argentinean brand Espina Corona a way of synthesis. The same as expressed in the furniture, highlighting the simplicity of the material, the nobility of wood. Espina Corona arose two years ago, with the idea to value the typical woods of South America
Above.  the Kangoro Armchair designed by Marcelo Orlievsky.







 






 









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Thursday, May 26, 2016

New York: Fashion - The MET - Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology



 photograph and copyright Alan Cope – courtesy The MET

“Traditionally, the distinction between the haute couture and pret-a-porter was based on the handmade and the machine-made, but recently this distinction has become increasingly blurred as both disciplines have embraced the practices and techniques of the other, Manus x Machina challenges the conventions of the hand/machine dichotomy and proposes a new paradigm germane to our age of technology.”
 Andrew Bolton
Curator in Charge – The Costume Institute

New York:  Fashion - The MET - Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology.  At the Metropolitan Museum of Art, until August 14, the exhibition Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology which explores how fashion designers are reconciling the handmade and the machine-made in the creation of haute couture and avant-garde ready-to-wear. Exhibiting more than 170 ensembles dating from the early 20th century to the present, it addresses the founding of the haute couture in the 19th century, when the sewing machine was invented, and the emergence of a distinction between the hand (manus) and the machine (machina) at the onset of mass production.
Above. Karl Lagerfeld - House of Chanel - Wedding ensemble -back view - autumn/winter 2014–15 - haute couture.



“Perhaps it used to matter if a dress was hand-made or machine-made, at least in the haute couture, but now things are completely different…The digital revolution has changed the world.”

Karl Lagerfeld - House of Chanel
Wedding ensemble - autumn/winter 2005–6 - haute couture
detail

 

Manus x Machina
Hubert de Givenchy – House of Givenchy
Evening Dress – 1963 – haute couture
Sarah Burton - Alexander McQueen
Dress – spring/summer 2012 – pret-a-porter


“This dress was 3-D printed.  It was built layer by layer in a vessel of liquid polymer which hardens when struck by laser beam.”

Iris van Herpen
Dress – autumn 2012 – haute couture

 


“This dress made from cast fiberglass, was machine spray painted and hand-embroidered with crystals and pearled paper. It is accessed through a rear panel, is on wheels and operated via remote control. Each ‘pollen’ during a peak moment is released into the air and swirls around the wearer.  It is intended as a poetic gesture, meant to symbolize new beginnings.”

Hussein Chalayan
"Kaikoku" floating dress - autumn/winter 2011–12 – pret-a-porter





Manus x Machina

Paul Poiret
Coat – ca. 1919 – haute couture

 



“Often when I use laser cuttong, I also employ the techniques of bonding or laminating, as in my autumn/winter 2012 collection when I bonded laser-cut pony skin to leather.”

Sarah Burton - Alexander McQueen
Ensemble – detail – autumn/winter 2012-13 – pret-a-porter

 

“This dress shows the process of construction not deconstruction.  What sets apart couture from ready to wear is the ateliers, the workmanship, and the amazing attention to detail, nothing is impossible, and imagination becomes even more beautiful. For this look I wanted to show the magic of the draping on the form, how the block to the toile to the final gown is created, and all the stages in between.”
  
John Galliano – House of Dior
Ensemble – autumn/winter 2005-06 – haute couture
Charles James
Muslin – Ca. 1950


 

“I express a concept to patternmakers in words on or through nuance.  Design starts with how my staff interprets the concept.  The patterners are in fact designing.  We don’t apply the usual patterning routine to our conceptual making process.  It is cumbersome.”


Rei Kawakubo – Comme Des Garcons
Ensemble – spring/summer 2013 – pret-a-porter
Viktor and Rolf
Ensemble – spring/summer 1998 – haute couture

 




“While working with 3-D software I was fascinated by the grid shown on the 2-D screen and by the way black repetitive lines define voluminous objects.  I have translated those lines into textiles that create this sort of optical illusion.”

Noa Raviv
Ensemble and Dress – 2014 – pret-a-porter
Center and right

 
“It is very rare for me to make an item of clothing in which the hand is absent entirely, but this dress, made from EVA foam, but designed to look like leather, was cut by a machine, sewn by amachine, and finished by a machine.  I love the precision and perfection of machine-made clothes just as much as I love the imprecision and imperfection of hand-made clothes.”
  
Thom Browne
Dress – spring/summer 2013 – pret-a-porter
Detail


The flying saucer was a search for what could be done with different sorts of pleating, in this case, accordion pleats, and to see what could be done combining fabric, design, and movement.  Why not make a brightly colored wearable accordion.”

Issey Miyake - Miyake Design Studio
"Flying Saucer" dress - spring/summer 1994 – pret-a-porter


Manus x Machina
Artificial Flowers



 






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