MILAN FASHION WEEK

FRIDAY – Gianfranco Ferre. The grand finale. British, singer rapper, Skin not only modeled, but also gave a live concert at the after show party. “And lastly, I let myself succumb to the power and allure of boundless dreams, to making the impossible possible, to beauty in the purest of states. Creating a top studded with diamonds. Real diamonds. A basic design, quasi minimalist of cut and shape, paired with tapered tuxedo trousers, and then a silk cape to highlight rather than to hide. At once dazzling and sublime, very much in a mirage mode. Interpreted on the runway by a woman with glamor all her own, a combination of strength and charm, sensuality and energy merging magically in a winning personality and an absolutely irresistible appeal…” Gianfranco Ferre.

Backstage a Ferre. H.R.H. Princess Michael of Kent poses with Gianfranco Ferre and with Evelina Shapira after the beautiful collection. Princess Michael said “An ethereal floating view and fashion vision.” Also present; Prince and Princess Serge de Yugoslavie, Count and Countess Gaetano Marzotto, Ornella Vannoni, Danny Quinn, Stefania Rocca, Anna Valle, Anna Galliena.

Note: the androgynous man

On the Ferre runway. “I envisioned myself on a kind of journey, more like a promenade which originated in an intent for androgyny and evolved to the point of becoming an open declaration of respect and unconditional passion for femininity. Punctuated by a feel for pure ease yet also by flashes of alchemy, this new collection emerged for me as a way of exploring my own idea of feminine essence: in equal parts sophisticated and immediate, severe and measured. Rich in magic too, especially when the busy pace of day gives way to the gentle languor of evening…” Gianfranco Ferre.

Note: the androgynous woman

Backstage at Ferre. “…No less important for both fighting the wintry cold and defining this new silhouette are the quilted silk ring-stoles embracing the neck and caressing shoulders with natural ease and a dash of feminine malice..” Gianfranco Ferre.

Backstage at Ferre. Models relax in between the Gianfranco Ferre fashion shows. Take a second look at the model on the right, he is the handsome male model, Danila from Russia. He will be on the runway, see above, to stress the androgynous nature of the collection.

Backstage at Ferre. “I rediscovered and renewed a longtime love of mine: the sparkle of metals! Gold, silver pewter, titanium they add a special glint to the collection, enhancing nearly every material from denim to brocade, nappa to silk….” Gianfranco Ferre.

Backstage at Ferre. Gianfranco Ferre is taking a break in between shows. “I made a game of cross-referencing, focusing keen attention to the details, playing daringly with contradictions to achieve equipoise of true and therefore always uncommon elegance.” Gianfranco Ferre.

Pin It

MILAN FASHION WEEK

FRIDAY – Backstage at Missoni. Teresa and Margherita Missoni pose besides actress, Eliana Miglio. Eliana has just written a book which she is currently promoting in bookstores around Italy. It’s called “La Grande Invasione delle Rane”, which translates as The Big Invasion of the Frogs. She is also making her first film debut as a director, called “Lezioni di Volo” or flying lessons, where she will direct her nineteen year old son by director, Marco Risi, Andrea.

Backstage at Missoni. After the show, Angela Missoni gets a touch-up from Mac make-up artist before a Full Frontal Television interview by Judy Licht.

Backstage at Missoni. The make-up for the Missoni show was designed by freelance artist Rahman for MAC The make-up was created for a sexy and sensual woman. Mac, also designed the make-up for thirty-one fashion show this season.

Note: Emina models the sexy make-up perfectly. Black eyeliner, eyes-shadow, with lots of mascara and fake lashes. Also note that there is no lipstick but lip conditioner.

Pin It

MILAN FASHION WEEK

THURSDAY – Touche, Neozone and Cloudine. During Fashion week, Pitti Immagine launched Touch, Neozone and Cloudine fashion fairs. For the sophisticated buyer forty-five collections immersed in a futuristic loft atmosphere in the post industrial spaces of the ex-Ansaldo factory area in the Tortona zone of Milan.
Yeohlee. The tail of my eye caught the Yeohlee line, I just had to go back and take a proper look. For New York based designer, Yoehlee Teng, it was the first time she has shown her collection in Europe. Her clothes are sculptural; she dresses the “urban nomad” a term she coined, defining a lifestyle that requires clothing that works on a variety of practical and psychological levels. Yoehlee believes that “Clothes have magic.”

Marzi. It really is weird. I love hats and nearly always wear one. I was therefore, attracted to this stand, before discovering that I already own three or four of their hats. The Florentine company, Marzi makes bohemian neo romantic 1920s style hats, as well as, two tone fedoras, embellished by edge to edge seams on felt trimmings, cheeky beanie hats, railway workers caps and fun cloches in leopard print cashmere. They are the best in Italy.

Pin It

MILAN FASHION WEEK

THURSDAY – Red Dress Italia. The Red Dress symbol was introduced to remind women of the need to protect their heart health. Last February, National Wear Red Day, twenty of America’s most celebrated women walked the runway for women’s heart health. Together they showcased a collection of one of a kind Red dresses designed by America’s most acclaimed designers to raise awareness about heart disease, the number one killer of women. The Italian chapter, headed by the Fondazione Giovanni Lorenzini (Milan-Houston) took a stand at the Milan Fashion Fair center to promote awareness over here too.

Pin It

MILAN FASHION WEEK

THURSDAY – Emilio Pucci. This year marks the 60^th anniversary of the Emilio Pucci line and here are the beautiful, strong and aggressive clothes the Marchesa Cristina mentioned below. Though, Emilio Pucci’s designer, Matthew Williamson trained at Saint Martin’s School in prints, as you can see, he is equally good with plain colors. “I was inspired by the great stylish period of the ‘60’s and ‘70’s.” he explained.

Emilio Pucci’s daughter and the maison’s image director, Marchesa Laudomia Pucci chats with Princess Marina Pignatelli. Marina bought three Pucci outfits the day before and she told me that is all that she is talking with her to a trip to America. “They are great to mix and match. I have been wearing Pucci since I was seventeen, since I modeled a Pajama Palazzo collection in Capri for Emilio.”

Backstage: The Marchesa Cristina Pucci commented on the collection “Fashion has changed. You can tell that we are at the beginning of a new century. The collection is beautiful, aggressive and strong. It has a sense of humor, as well as, elegance.”

Note: the stones add glamour, glitter and detail to a Pucci print dress. Pin It

MILAN FASHION WEEK

THURSDAY – Backstage at Max Mara. Two models fool around for the camera after the Max Mara show. Creative director, Giorgio Guidotti said the collections was “1980’s influenced and inspired by military uniforms and Star Wars.”
Note: the Rastafarian fringe.

Max Mara’s Chairman, Luigi Maramotti takes a look at the model line-up. “I’m interested in seeing which model I thought worked best for our clothes. I later discuss this with the design team.” He commented.

The final touch. It’s always chaos backstage before a show. Models are being made-up, combed, photographed and interviewed. I loved this beautiful military inspired, yellow tailored jacket and wide gabardine trousers. Pin It

MILAN FASHION WEEK

WEDNESDAY – Salvatore Ferragamo. The Ferragamo woman will be pleased by this collection. It breathes a sophisticated and precious elegance in design.. A unisex wardrobe mixes his and hers in a daring cross-over of roles. Graphic fabrics from men’s tailoring blend with haute couture materials: contrast becomes femininity. Bravo Graeme.

Seen backstage at Salvatore Ferragamo. Salvatore Ferragamo’s creative director and designer, Graeme Black is photographed besides Ferragamo’s neo CEO, Michele Norsa “I loved the serene elegance and the wear ability. It was a very Ferragamo collection. I also thought the shoes were exceptional.” He said pleased by the collection.

Pin It

MILAN FASHION WEEK

WEDNESDAY – Marni. Consuelo Castiglioni’s collection for Marni defines the silhouette with futuristic textures, designed, supported and moved by the body. Couture and acid accents, bold and bright colors enhance the linear cuts of dresses, blouses and skirts and the sleek lines of laser-cut evening coats. In the context of a wardrobe that also contains the darker dustier shades, as well as, deeper and decisive colors like graphite, coffee and black interspersed with red and green flashes. It was a beautiful and wearable collection; I can’t wait for next fall.

Seen at the Marni show. Franca and Karla chat before the Marni show. Italian Vogue’s Franca Sozzani is wearing a Versace coat and Manolo Blahnik shoes. International PR Karla Otto is, naturally, wearing Marni.

Seen at the Marni show. Saks Fifth Avenue’s Terron Schaefer. “I loved the collection, the silhouettes, the colors, the accessories, bags and shoes.” He said.

Detail: Terry is wearing a custom made Anderson and Sheppard, Savile Row bespoke pinstripe suit, a Turnbull and Asser shirt, Charvet tie, an Etro pocket square, hand-made Berluti shoes and a salmon fishing lure in his buttonhole. His pastime while on holiday, is to hunt the local fishing stores for colorful fishing lures.

Seen arriving at the Marni show.

Quiz: A) Who is this lady? B) What is she wearing? C) With what film do you associate her with?

Pin It

MILAN FASHION WEEK

TUESDAY – Prada. I loved Prada Fall/Winter 2007/2008 collection. It was full of innovative fabrics and colors. See above, the cooked wool effect, and the crinkled wool skirt, the bag without handles, with a big bow. I can best describe it as de-constructed non-conformist clothes. “It’s simple but strange.” Miuccia said after the show.

A detail of the toeless heavy woollen knee socks, and the new satin winter sandals.
Note: the incurving heel.

Miuccia Prada at the receiving line after the show, chats to French Vogue’s editor in chief Corinne Roitfeld.

Pin It

MILAN FASHION WEEK

TUESDAY – The Ken Scott presentation. Seen at the Ken Scott presentation Joseph D’Souza. He was Ken Scott’s legendary assistant for eighteen years. Jo arrived in Italy from India in 1961 to attend the Koefia Academy in Rome, where he won the gold medal for best fashion designer. From there he did a short stint as an apprentice to the Sorelle Fontana before moving to Milan and Ken Scott. Jo is wearing a vintage shirt and tie bought in New York, tartan cotton trousers, designed by himself and a Tyrolean tweed vintage jacket. He now lives between Bombay and Como. He commented the collection, now designed by Antonio Ponte, as being “Modern for the times we are living in today.”

The collection revives long-ago fabrics with special textural qualities. It dips into the Ken Scott archive to revisit floral prints, designs and colors. Reinventing and adding a modern edge to the nostalgia of prêt-a-porter elegance. Above, a classic handbag made in velvet logo jacquard.

Pin It

MILAN FASHION WEEK

TUESDAY – Pollini by Rifat Ozbek. Rifat Ozbek is flanked by two beautiful models after his successful collection for Pollini. The collection plays on the contemporary theme of the “uniform” and the concept of sophisticated sportswear done in a feminine approach through romantic detailing. The fab. lime green berets are by Philip Treacy for Pollini.

Pin It

MILAN FASHION WEEK

TUESDAY – Romeo Gigli. Gentucca Bini is the new creative director for the Romeo Gigli brand. Backstage, she gives Nobel Prize laureate in Literature, Dario Fo a big kiss for coming to support her first ladies collection for Romeo Gigli. Gentucca’s father, designer Stefano Bini explains “Dario lives on the same floor as us. He takes interest in Gentucca’s creativity, determination and talent. She takes after my mother, Bruna the famous fashion designer of the seventies.”

Gentucca Bini was not inspired by a historical icon for the collection. She studied “emergency” fashion, which appeared between 1935 and 1945, when the circumstances forced women to adapt men’s clothing and invent an elegant look that was the quintessence of style and a pure expression of individual desire. I loved her mix of prints with tweed and knitwear.

Who say models don’t eat? Here is Brazilian model Amanda Lopez enjoying a big sandwich at 9 am. Pin It

MILAN FASHION WEEK

MONDAY EVENING – The Giorgio Armani exhibition at the Triennale. I’m so sorry that my photograph does not do justice to this beautiful exhibition. The exhibition is even better that the first Guggenheim Armani show six years ago in New York. Exhibition designer, Robert Wilson has outdone himself. And, so has Giorgio Armani. Beautifully lit total black rooms after room of six hundred gorgeous dresses are exhibited in the Triennale. And, when you think you have had enough of black, suddenly you reach a white room. A pure treat. I’m particularly happy because I have two jackets and a pair of shorts in the show, they have returned home after the world tour.

MONDAY – Giorgio Armani Fashion Fall/Winter 2007/2008 Show. This is the ritual photograph after any Giorgio Armani fashion show, the maestro himself and his models. This picture comes before any interviews or any photographs of Mr. Armani and his celebrities. Bubble, Bubble, Bubble skirts was the message this season and no trousers on the runway, as well as, flat shoes and bare legs. Another Armani classic collection.

Part of the front row at the Giorgio Armani Fall/Winter 2007/2008 fashion show. In the second row, above Tina Turner,on the left Robert Wilson, theater director and visual artist who designed the gorgeous Armani exhibition at Triennale is sitting next to art critic and curator Germano Celant. In the front row; Tina Turner and her boyfriend, actress, Maria Grazia Cucinotta, who co–produced The Invisible Children, socialite, Princess Mafalda Von Hessen, Armani’s British ambassador, Lady Helen Taylor and journalist, author and member of the European parliament, Lily Gruber. Also present; Ornella Muti, Chelsea soccer star, Andriy Shevchenko and actresses: Donatella Finocchiaro, Martina Colombari, Anna Kanakis, Antonia Dell’Atte, Rachel Roberts, Fang Bing Bing and Alessandra Mastronardi.

Tina Turner was one of guests of honor “I have been wearing Armani since the 70’s. It works for me. And, I support everything he does.” She told me.

Pin It

MILAN FASHION WEEK

SUNDAY – Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal Collection at Galleria Carla Sozzani. The use of white, with all its different shades, tones and textures, as universal color and the decorative signature have always characterized the Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal Collection. Infact, the exhibition, very cleverly, with its silhouetted shadows panels, on one side, greats you at the Galleria Carla Sozzini, upstairs in Corso Como 10. It is the first time ever that Carla has hosted an exhibition that isn’t art or photography. The selection of pieces from the Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal Collection includes the most emotional and creative pieces over the past twenty years. These pieces are born from the poetic conception of imperfections: “Our most important source of inspiration has always been the extremes and the changes of everyday life.”

The research of used and new materials and the belief that these garments and objects can be given a second life, while respecting and maintaining the traces of the passage of time and use, remains one of the keystones of the Maison’s creative expression.

Did you know? In 1994 the Maison launched its first “Aids T-shirt”. Since then, the T-shirt is proposed each season in a different color. Parts of the profits are donated to a research foundation against the Aids virus.

Pin It

MILAN FASHION WEEK

SUNDAY: Nhow Hotel. I decided to take the day off from the shows, partly to save my energies for the coming week and partly because I wanted to see the Martin Margiela exhibition, see a movie and to take a look at the Nhow Hotel designed by Matteo Thun. The Nhow is situated in the old General Electric building in the new trendy Tornona/Savona area of Milan. The area of ex factories that now houses photographic studios, fashion and design showrooms, as well as, Armani’s theater. Nhow reinterprets spaces and times, services and functions, in a mood that wraps you as soon as you enter, from the hall to the suites. The common areas are filled with design, (like the Jacopo Foggini chandeliers, above) and unique works of art, as well as, experimental videos and photographs which are projected every day for guests to enjoy and, they are all for sale. Nhow is a new experience in hotel living dedicated to an avant-guard, sophisticated and international clientele.

Note: I loved the detail of the water coming from above in the loos near the lobby. Click on the image to enlarge.

Pin It

MILAN FASHION WEEK

SATURDAY: Seduzioni Diamonds by Valeria Marini. The showgirl and actress, ValeriaMarini is very happy after her sexy collection for her fashion brand, Seduzioni Diamonds. After the show four bodyguards protect her from fans, press and celebrities while she is being interviewed by one of the many fashion televisions covering Milan Fashion Week.

Inspired by Madame de Pompadour and the Italian cult pop-cartoon character Valentina, by way of Cat Woman and Barbarella, the collection blends elements from the icons to create a feminine figure that is halfway between fetish and comic strip.

Actress, Maria Grazia Cuccinotto commented the whole show live for pop-star turned fashion commentator, Jo Squillo’s TV Moda fashion channel. Elio Fiorucci, whose latest boutique is called Love Therapy, was in his element, not only watching the sexy clothes on the runway, but also to be photographed next to La Cuccinotta. Also at the show, TV presenter, Federica Panicucci, Linda Battisti and fashion designer, Alviero Martini, who makes bags and suitcases printed with the map of the world.

Presented for the first time the VM Jeans line, with the initials of the eclectic designer, the VM - vietato ai minori - acronym also means X rated in Italian. Her seduction thus seeps into the world of five pockets.

Pin It