Milan: Women's A/W Fashion shows 09/10

Backstage at the Gianfranco Ferre Autumn/Winter 2009/2010 Collection. There was much request for interviews of the Gianfranco Ferre designers, Aquilano and Rimondi now in their second season for the house.

Gianfranco Ferre. Experimental approach of materials mixes of volumes and geometric digressions play back and forth with modern takes on fluidity. For next winter the Gianfranco Ferre collection exalts the classic couture luxury fabrics, cuts and applications.


Gianfranco Ferre. Ever shaper and cleaner, the silhouette combines different shapes, defining clothes that become uniforms of three-dimensional elegance, an attitude increasingly confident and genuinely global.

Gianfranco Ferre – the shoes. The height of interplay between shape, hue and material is emphasized in the new accessories.


Gianfranco Ferre - a detail. The platform shoes with contrast base feature heels in pyramidal wood and Murano glass with acanthus leaf ornamentation.

Gianfranco Ferre – the make-up. A close-up of the make-up shows strong eyebrows, kohl misty eyes and natural lips.




Gianfranco Ferre – a detail. A detail of the hairstyle from behind. The coat is made with cashmere and alpaca bouclé for a shiny/mat moiré result.




Seen at Gianfranco Ferre. Anna Wintour and Franca Sozzani enjoy a tete a tete.

Seen at Gianfranco Ferre. X Factor, Simona Ventura, had just enough time to change in between shows, from Armani pink (see below) to a Ferre black and red suit.

Seen at Gianfranco Ferre. Alberto and Charlie Ferre.

Seen at Gianfranco Ferre. Fabien Baron.


Seen at Gianfranco Ferre. Max Mara’s Giorgio Guidotti:

Custom made suit: Antimi

Shirt: Charvet

Tie: Bruno Ragazzi

Handkerchief: Barneys

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Milan: Women's A/W Fashion shows 09/10

Urban Florist. On Thurdays, Fridays and Saturdays, Salvatore parks his Ape Piaggio pick up on the corner of Via Pontaccio and Corso Garibaldi. The Urban florist sells the freshest flowers. I like his assortments; freesias, tulips, daffodils, iris, roses, they are my kind of flowers.

A Detail. On top of the Ape Piaggio pick up, Salvatore keeps vases of plain and parrot tulips.

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Milan: Women's A/W Fashion shows 09/10

Giorgio Armani. This is the classic Giorgio Armani pose after the runway shows. It tells it all.

Giorgio Armani. The evening gowns are always glamorous and as you can see very red carpet.

Giorgio Armani – a detail. I loved these sequined boots Armani showed with long evening gowns.

Giorgio Armani – the front row. For the first time there were no international stars. Amongst those in the front row: X Factor’s, Simona Ventura, songwriter and composer, Mario Lavezzi, model, Eva Riccobono, actress, Anna Kanakis, pop star, Alexia, karate world champion, Stefano Maniscalco and sports anchor, Ilaria d’Amico.

Contessanally tip: Click on the photo to enlarge it.

Seen at the Giorgio Armani show. Milan intelligentsia, Rosellina Archinto talks to singer, Dori Ghezzi.

Seen at the Giorgio Armani show. Neo-gallerist, Nicolo Cardi who’s opening of his new contemporary art gallery Cardi Black Box was a great social and cultural success, gives a thumbs up.

Seen at the Giorgio Armani show. Style.com’s Jim Blanks is getting ready to record another video for Vogue America’s great website.

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Milan: Women's A/W Fashion shows 09/10

Hogan: When L.L. Bean meets Hogan or rather when the outdoor spirit meets urban attitude. That sums up the Hogan’s women’s autumn/winter collection, which was presented in their showroom. A fresh makeover for the iconic Hogan, experimenting new proportions: a full volume plateau injects a feminine yet forceful look whilst keeping true to the DNA of the celebrated style: attractive.

Seen at the Hogan presentation: London’s Evening Standard style director, Gianluca Longo:

Jacket: Gucci
Cardigan and scarf: Marni
Shirt: Principe Firenze
Eyeglasses: YSL

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Milan: Women's A/W Fashion shows 09/10

Seen at Angela Missoni's Surprise Birthday Party. A detail of the birthday cake. The evening of the fashion show the Missoni’s threw a belated surprise birthday party to celebrate the house designer, Angela Missoni’s fiftieth birthday. It was held in the Visionaire theatre converted for the evening in a disco where on the walls a slide show of Angela’s personal photos played all night. The photos where chosen and edited by Angela’s handsome boyfriend, Bruno Ragazzi.

Seen at Angela Missoni's Surprise Birthday Party. Photographer, Mario Testino, birthday girl, Angela Missoni, opera director and set designer, Patrick Kinmonth and Allegra Beck Versace.

Seen at Angela Missoni's Surprise Birthday Party. The beautiful, Margherita Maccapani Missoni chats with Geronimo La Russa and Fabio Brusa.

Seen at Angela Missoni's Surprise Birthday Party. Teresa Maccapani Missoni smiles with her mother’s P.A. Ilaria Buschetti.

Seen at Angela Missoni's Surprise Birthday Party. Artist, Ali Kazma celebrates with art critic, Michela Moro.

Seen at Angela Missoni's Surprise Birthday Party. Suzy Menkes and Allegra Beck Versace.


A detail. A detail of Allegra’s bracelets, which she makes with Margherita Missoni.

Seen at Angela Missoni's Surprise Birthday Party. The party was held in the Visionaire Design Gallery and theatre. Samuele Mazza is Visionaire’s creative director and chief designer.

Seen at Angela Missoni's Surprise Birthday Party. Luca and Judy Missoni.

Seen at Angela Missoni's Surprise Birthday Party. Stefano Tonchi and J.J. Martin. Don’t miss J.J.’s story in The New York Times, called, Milan Fashion Week – The Caffeine Guide.

Seen at Angela Missoni's Surprise Birthday Party. Stefano Tonchi and J.J. Martin “Twitter”.



Seen at Angela Missoni's Surprise Birthday Party. Rosita Missoni and her nephew, Angelo Jelmini.



A detail. A close-up of the Cassata di Sicilia ice cream.

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Milan: Women's A/W Fashion shows 09/10

Prada - Via Montenapoleone store: The Iconoclasts. The window of the Prada store styled by Olivier Rizzo. This was the third stage of The Iconoclasts project, where four iconic fashion editors remix merchandise in Prada stores. Previously, the New York and London stores were dressed by Alex White and Katie Grand. Next and last stop Paris, where it will be Carine Roitfeld turn. The project is a chance to highlight creative level.



Prada - Via Montenapoleone store: The Iconoclasts. At the opening party, Wallpaper’s Nick Vinson was interviewing stylist, Olivier Rizzo. Wallpaper magazine has covered each step in The Iconoclasts projects. .

A detail: Prada - Via Montenapoleone store: The Iconoclasts. Olivier Rizzo’s lucky charms hang on a gold chain around his neck.

Seen at the Prada - Via Montenapoleone store: The Iconoclasts. Italian comedienne, Lella Costa, wearing Antonio Marras.

Prada - Via Montenapoleone store: The Iconoclasts. A still life interpretated by Olivier Rizzo mixes new and historical pieces.

Note: The famous and rare tulip print in the foreground.

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Milan: Women's A/W Fashion shows 09/10

Cardi Black Box – Shirana Shahbazi exhibition. A new art gallery, Cardi Black Box opens to the public and launches its presence on the contemporary art scene with an exhibition dedicated to Iranian-German artist Shirana Shahbazi, at her first solo show in Italy. Seen here with her husband, graphic designer, Manuel Krebs, Shahbazi was born in Teheran in 1974, she moved to Europe at a young age, and now lives and works in Zurich. The gallery was born out of a project by gallerist, Nicolo Cardi and it has prestigious young partners; Barbara Berlusconi, daughter of the Italian Prime Minister and Martina Mondadori of the publishing house. The entrepreneurial, Cardi, has a background in business applied to art, chose as his artistic director Sarah Cosulich Canarutto, who has a long-standing experience in international institutions. This young team, with clear ideas believes that they can offer recognition to the art historical value of the proposed artists, regardless of provenance and age, in the conviction that a private commercial space can present museum quality exhibitions.

Cardi Black Box – Shirana Shahbazi exhibition. The Shirana Shahbazi exhibition, until April 4th, curated by Sarah Cosulich Canarutto, presents a selection of about twenty five recent and unpublished works. An array of photographs but also paintings and carpets that compose an installation, a space where the seductive power of the images becomes an opportunity to trigger a new reading of reality from the part of the viewer. Shahbazi works primarily with photography, a medium whose full potential she widely explores, pushing its boundaries by carrying it onto other media, such as painting, printmaking and objects. Still life is a recurring theme and one of the most important elements in her artistic practice but the artist also measures with other picture genres, such as portrait, landscape and history painting, establishing an interesting and deep culture-crossing relationship which questions the dichotomy between modernity and tradition, epic and ordinary.

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Milan: Women's A/W Fashion shows 09/10

Backstage at the Missoni Autumn/Winter 2009/210 collection. Before the show, American Vogue’s editor-in-chief, Anna Wintour gets a special preview from the designer, Angela Missoni.

Backstage at Missoni – The models are ready to go. A layering of stories, fabrics and colors lightly woven into one. Voluminous scarves, soft cardigans, deconstructed jackets, elongated revers on boyfriend jacket, jogging pants, shorts with masculine silhouettes, soft knitwear and sheer slip dresses. A celebration of knitwear, with defined lines and proportions.

Backstage at Missoni – a detail. A detail of the textures of the knitwear and fabrics. This celebration of soft knitwear; space-dyed and entwined yarns create a mélange and tweed effect for the fluffy scarves, note the long fingerless gloves and the soft grey men’s elongated military cloth jacket.




Backstage at Missoni – the make-up. Yes, the model is “made-up” and it’s so natural. The make-up was created by Lucia Pieroni for Mac.
"It's no makeup," Lucia said “I only used concealer to cover blemishes, and eyebrow gel and lip balm.”

 Instead of make-up Lucia concentrated on preparing the skin with moisturizing masks and facial massages to increase circulation. "It gets the skin glowing.”

Backstage at Missoni: the make-up brushes. I asked make-up artist, Vicky Ceschi a Santa Croce how to clean make-up brushes. This is what she recommends:
Method # 1 – clean with a dry-cleaning liquid called Trichloroethylene, commonly known in Italy as Trielina. This cleans and disinfects them.
Method # 2 – wash in two parts vinegar and one part hot water.
Method # 3 – wash twice with shampoo.
Method # 4 - wash with gentle facial cleanser.
Note: the best brushes are made of sable and the very best brand is the Japanese, Kabuki Brushes.

Backstage at Missoni: the hair. EUGENE SOULEIMAN is one of the most influential hair stylists today, a true visionary who inspires and sets the trends that other stylists follow.

A detail: Eugene Souleiman’s hat is by Yohji Yamamoto, note how it dips in the back.



Seen at Missoni: the front row. Margherita Maccapani Missoni keeps Anna Wintour company in the front row.


Seen at Missoni: Veteran buyer. Joan Bernstein of London’s Browns boutique.

Missoni: the water. At the show, press and buyers are offered bottled water with a Missoni label with the date of the fashion show printed on it.

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Milan: Women's A/W Fashion shows 09/10

Lunch at the Thun’s. Every time I’m in Milan, I usually have lunch with Susanne Thun in her penthouse apartment and if I’m very lucky, her husband, Matteo joins us. The famous architect and designer is usually away on a jet around the world for business. He is wearing:

Waistcoat: Hermes
Shirt: Loro Piana
Eyeglasses: Hoffmann Natural Eyewear

photograph courtesy Studio Matteo Thun

Matteo Thun’s design for the Valverde water bottle. "The essential form of water" Matteo Thun explains ”is the concept for the bottle design inspired by the qualities of the water: pureness and lightness.” The bottle won a bronze medal in the “Water Innovation Award 2008”, in the category “Best Bottle in Glass”.

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Milan: Women's A/W Fashion shows 09/10

At L’Oro dei Farlocchi: Hermes and Maurizio Epifani. Maurizio Epifani, tastemaker par excellance is obsessed with Hermes memorabilia. In his shop, L'Oro dei Farlocchi, of unusual and elegant objects, in the heart of Brera, he even has a room dedicated exclusively to the French Luxury brand. Maurizio is standing in front of a framed rare commemorative Hermes scarf designed in 2007 by artist, Kermit Oliver in honor of the 250th anniversary of the birth of the Marquis de Lafayette.



The Hermes Boxes. Maurizio creates boxscapes with the famous orange boxes. This photo is taken from the beautiful book; L’Oro dei Farlocchi produced by Maurizio and sold exclusively at the L’Oro dei Farlocchi store in Brera. The book is a tribute to taste and elegance and a thank you to friends and clients.
A short history of the orange box: The Hermes box came about in the 1920's.The first boxes were cream-colored, with a gilded-edging imitating pig-skin; then mustard-colored with brown edging. The Second World War forced the next color change: During the Occupation, the shortage of all materials forced Hermes to use the only plain paperboard available: It was orange. After the war, this color was continued, but in a much more vivid shade (as today) with a relief pattern. In 1949, the Bolduc (brown ribbon) was introduced. Today, all Hermes objects come in the orange box.
Note: There are about 188 sizes of Hermes orange boxes.



The Hermes scarf. Maurizio's collection of Hermes scarves ranges from 1948 to the present day. He has designed replicas of the original Hermes orange box in Perspex, so that he can see what is inside each one without opening it.
A website: The Hermes Scarf Collection International Group is a place to browse and research photos of Hermes scarves cross-referenced by name, artist, first year of issue, material theme, etc.

Hermes rubber bag. This rare Hermes rubber bag is decorated with thorn stripes of Hermes scarves. Maurizio thinks that this tote was probably created for the American market.

Hermes camera and Visionaire. A single use Hermes disposable camera, probably a hand-out at a fashion show and a copy of Visionaire multi-format album. With a new theme and format for each issue, Visionaire stretches the imagination and boundaries of what an art and fashion publication can be. For Issue No. 32: Where? Visionaire collaborates with the venerable Paris-based fashion house Hermes.

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Milan: Women's A/W Fashion shows 09/10

Milan – Emporio Armani Billboard. It is the first time that the attractive couple, David and Victoria Beckham have posed together for the Emporio Armani underwear advertising campaign. The handsome soccer player is on loan from the Los Angeles Galaxy to AC Milan for the rest of the season. This huge black and white billboard went up in Brera for the menswear shows in January.

Note: the tram wires that still activate the original 1928 Peter Witt designed streetcars. There are 120 tram, trolley-bus and bus lines in Milan covering an area of 1,400 km.

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