Thursday, March 19, 2015

Paris: Palais Galliera – Jeanne Lanvin Exhibition

Paris:  Palais Galliera – Jeanne Lanvin Exhibition. At the Palais Galliera, until August 23, Jeanne Lanvin exhibition. In close collaboration with Alber Elbaz, artistic director of Lanvin,  the Musee de la Mode de la Ville de Paris, honors the oldest French fashion house still in business. This first Paris exhibition devoted to Jeanne Lanvin (1867-1946) features over a hundred models from the amazing collections of the Palais Galliera and Lanvin Heritage.
Mademoiselle Jeanne began her career as a milliner in 1885. In 1897, she gave birth to her only daughter, Marguerite, who became her primary source of inspiration. In 1908,  she began designing children’s clothes, and then she opened the Young Ladies’ and Women’s department.  Subsequently, she joined the Syndicat de la Couture, and entered the closed world of French Fashion Houses. There followed a brides’ department, lingerie, furs and, in the early 1920s, interior decoration and sport. In 1926, the entrepreneurial designer launched into men’s fashion. Inspired by the intense blue in frescoes by Fra Angelico, that same quattrocento blue became her favorite color… In 1927, she celebrated her daughter Marguerite’s thirtieth birthday with the creation of the legendary perfume Arpege. The famous logo designed by Paul Iribe, depicting the couturier with Marguerite, is displayed on the round bottle created by Armand Rateau. The same logo is still featured on Lanvin creations to this day.
Above. My Fair Lady dress. A white biased cut organza ribbon on a white tulle background, gives a black effect; black taffeta knot. Signed Lanvin 1939 Lanvin Heritage – JL No. 043.

Jeanne  Lanvin – Album d’Echantillons Brodes Ete 1925. Jeanne Lanvin used travel diaries, swatches of ethnic fabrics and a vast library of art books to feed her curiosity and inspire her to create fabrics, patterns and exclusive colors. Jeanne Lanvin represents artistry in materials, embroidery, top stitches, twists, spirals, cut-outs – all the virtuosity of the couturiere’s craft. It is classical French perfection, with very 18th century style dresses – slender bust, low waist, ample skirt – contrasting with the tubular line of Art Deco with its black and white geometrical patterns, the profusion of ribbons, crystals, beads, and silk tassels.

Palais Galliera.  Surrounded by a garden and freely inspired by Palladian-ism, the Palais Galliera typifies what is known as the 'Beaux-Arts' style, highly popular in the 19th century.  It was commissioned from architect Paul-Rene-Leon Ginain by Marie Brignole-Sale, the Duchesse de Galliera, as a setting for her extensive art collection and a means for this cultivated woman to make her paintings, sculptures and objets d'art available to as wide an audience as possible. Statue by Alfred Boucher - Effort -1890.
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