Thursday, April 14, 2022

Homo Faber - Details: Genealogies of Ornament + Italy and Japan: Marvellous Liaisons + The Atelier of Wonders

Homo Faber
Details: Genealogies of Ornament 
Curator - Judith Clark 
Details: Genealogies of Ornament showcases the crafts heritage evident in the creation of contemporary luxury objects, from watches and jewellery to leather goods, fine tailoring, kimonos and much more. Observe master artisans from 15 luxury maisons working live in studio spaces, demonstrating the steps necessary to create unique pieces, and understand how specific traditions, handed down from generation to generation, inform how these masters work today.  Iconic objects illustrate the origins of each maison’s decorative style, as well as Japan’s influence on European artisans.
Roberto Capucci - dress - 1959 - 
Chloe - Gabriela Hearst - dress - Summer collection -  2022
Roberto Capucci - dress - Origami - 1980 - 
Wafrica - Bogaian Kimono ensemble - Kimono Queen 9 2017
Wafrica - Kimono ensemble - Kimono Queen 3 - 2008
Van Cleef & Arpels 
Since its foundation in 1906 in Place Vendome - Paris - Van Cleef & Arpels has stood out for its high jewellery savoire-faire.  Illustrating the artisans' ingenuity, the Zip necklace reinterprets the zip fastener in gold and precious stones and can be turned into a bracelet.

Van Cleef and Arpels  - Zip Necklace - 1954 + 1952 - Zip Bracelet - 1955
The - Velour au Sabre - Technique
This rare - velvet cut - technique is used to create a velvet motif on a piece of fabric.  Working by hand on double warp duchess satin, the artisan delicately cuts the uppermost satin surface with a sabre blade.  This results in a beautiful velvet pattern adorning an exceptional piece of fabric.

Hermes - Les Artisans d'Hermes - design - Akira Yamaguchi - scarf
Alta Sartoria
Synonymous with uniqueness, creativity and style - Dolce&Gabbana Alta Sartoria  - is a great celebration of the Italian tailoring tradition combined with a revival of the most refined handcrafted and decorative techniques.  Shapes, artistic inspiration and attention to the most precious details make each garment an authentic work of art. 

Couture Sculpture
A dialogue between Azzedine Alaia, the maison's founder, celebrated as the last couturier, and Pieter Mulier, the new creative director.  A dialogue devoted to the craft, the cut, the body and the fabric, and a shared fascination with how fabric interacts with the human body.  In an endless quest for perfection, Alaia's renowned ateliers sculpt leather as though it were silk and transform knitwear and poplin into sculptured armour.

Alaia - couture evening dresses -1986-2022 
Alaia's Caroline Fabre

Italy and Japan: Marvellous Liaisons
curator - Fondazione Cologni dei Mestieri d'Arte
 Italy and Japan are two countries rich in history, culture and craftsmanship. Here, a selection of contemporary Italian master artisans designated MAM - Maestro d’Arte e Mestiere, the equivalent of Japan’s National Living Treasures - present work that represents this relationship. A fascinating journey to discover the talent, originality and fertility of a powerful dialogue between two cultures, founded on the beauty of knowledge and craftsmanship.  Their exquisite artworks are inspired by Japanese decorative motifs, techniques, materials and formal approaches, skilfully interpreted in the name of excellence - something called makoto by Japanesemasters. Through papier mache masks, silverware, jewellery, glassware,mosaics, metal sculptures, woodcarvings and much more, these artisans honour a cultural exchange that stretches back five centuries and still renews itself day after day.
 Compagnia Marionettistica - Carlo Colla & Figli - Grupporiani
La Sposa del Sole 
Giovanni e Vincenzo Barbini - Barbini Specchi Veneziani 
Sakura - replica 18th-century Venetian mirror

Lunardelli Venezia
Ma'Segno  - screen - uses Japanese construction style - Sashimono

Simone Crestani - Bonsai - Sculpture
Lorenzo Foglia
Riccio di Mare - caviar ice bucket - silver sculpture
Polpo - silver sculpture

Giuditta Doro - Alchymia - Konik - lacquered coffee tables
Lino Tagliapietra - Fenice  - handblown glass vases
Giovanni Bonotto - Marco Bianchini
Viaggio in Giappone dal Leone di San Marco al Drago mitologico giapponese con fiori di tiglio e di lotto
tapestry from recycled plastic and organic materials.
Giovanni Bonotto 
The Atelier of Wonders
Curator - Rinko Kawauchi
This stunning photography display in the Chiostri dei Cipressi of the Fondazione Giorgio Cini gives visitors an unprecedented glimpse inside the workshops of 12 Japanese National Living Treasures. Photographer Rinko Kawauchi had the privilege of observing these prized master artisans at work in their ateliers. Japan’s most distinguished kimono makers, ceramicists, textile dyers, weavers, cabinetmakers and a toso doll maker, who have all been designated by Japan as Preservers of Important Intangible Cultural Properties, opened their doors to Kawauchi. With her artful and thoughtful lens she captured the array of materials, age-old skills, expert gestures, timeless tools and traditional savoir-faire that are integral to the creation of beautiful pieces.

Yukie Osumi - Japanese National Living Treasure
metalwork - designated 2015

Jun Isezaki - Japanese National Living Treasure 
Bizen ware pottery - designated 2004
Marta Coin and Luca De Michelis







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