Monday, March 04, 2013

Milan: MFW – Antonio Marras – Fall/Winter 2013/14

Milan: MFW – Antonio Marras – Fall/Winter 2013/14. In the gilded rooms of the magnificent Palazzo Clerici, which boasts frescos by Tiepolo, the Antonio Marras Fall/Winter 2013/14 show, entitled Another Time, took place. The collection was inspired by Lea Vergine’s exhibition and it’s catalogue, Un Altro Tempo Tra Decadentismo e Modern Style or Another Time between Decadence and Modern style.

“It is to-day in which we live… Another Time has other lives to live.”
W.H. Auden

Antonio Marras – F/W 2013/14.  In each of the rooms an atmospheric tableaux vivant prepares guests for what is to come. “Imagine a home with sofas, rugs, pillows, and walls painted as if in a harem.  There are paintings and books all over.  Admidst the voices, noises, and laughter, someone is reading or painting, while another sews, embroiders, draws, takes photographs, writes, or rummages thgrough left-over yarn.
Above. In the literary tableaux vivant, super model Benedetta Barzini takes on the role of one of Antonio’s muse inspirations and chats with Antonio Marras as he shows art critic Lea Vergine to her seat whilst designer Francesca Giacomelli looks on. “Lea observes, smiles and records the scene.  She presented them to me in…the Another Time exhibit…” Marras writes.

Antonio Marras – F/W 2013/14 – the storyboard.  “They have returned – Vanessa, Virginia, Edith, Violet, Vita, Hilda, Dora, Helen, Jessica and Dorothy – and it’s as if they never left.  They are always near yet far, continuously searching for another place, another island where they can stop awhile.”

Antonio Marras – F/W 2013/14 – Backstage.  “They are friends, these insolent women, who have caused scandal and triggered fierce disagreements.  Bold and unconventional, polemical and provocative, and blessed with irony and sarcasm, they seek to define what is beautiful and true beyond convention, in complete freedom and with irreverence.”

The butlers

Anchor, showgirl and blogger Filippa Lagerback


 True to Marras’s roots, guests are offered Angialis, a Sardinian wine that has all the taste of Sardinia.

 Antonio Marras – F/W 2013/14.   “They are eccentric and cosmopolitan.  They are not simply extravagant because “eccentricity is not just extravagance: it is primarily nobility of spirit and manner.”  I think of their clothes in…Another Time."

 Antonio Marras – F/W 2013/14.     In the country, they bring back to life old abandoned buildings.  They build furniture and objects and decorate fabrics, ceramics, objects and bowls.  They dig in the soil. Water plants, trim trees, pick fruit, and take the dogs out for a walk.”

Super model Simonetta enjoys a cup of Coffee backstage.

 Antonio Marras – F/W 2013/14.   “They shun fads and prefer wearing clothes that express their spirit and faithfully reflect their complex personality.  They blend materials, shapes, and prints, luxurious jacquard wallpaper motifs in crimson and ecru devore’ velvet and rough masculine tweed, windowpane check wool, pinstripes, and mélange Prince of Wales check.”

The shoes

The bags

In the tableaux vivant, journalist, Cristina Morozzi plays a part.

Sky TV presenter Federica Torti

 Marras – Backstage.   “Grey and brown fabrics borrowed from Saville Row tailor shops.”

Patrizia Marras

Marras – Backstage.   “… with unexpected splashes of color such as dazzling yellow, deep fuchsia, intense white, and bright red.”

The bedroom

Marras: Backstage – make-up.  Make-up artist Tom Pecheux used M.A.C. Pro make-up.

Marras: Backstage – make-up.  “The skin is mat and very pale with a prune lipstick. There is gold eyeliner on the eyelids and a little gold dot below the eye.  I was inspired by modern art.” Pecheux explains.

Marras – Backstage.   “Fil coupe jacquard, silk twill, cavalry with lurex treads, and thick Chanel and silk organza fabric, heavy cotton satin with trailing decoupe' flowers in vibrant shades or black and white stripes are featured.” 

  Marras – Backstage.   “Fragments are extrapolated from their work.  Small details are reworked and recreated on prints, organza, and traditional British plaid combined with Chantilly lace.  Fabrics that are seemingly very different are, due to an absurd alchemy, combined and blended to tell a story about city life.   They are rearranged and used with country elements to narrate tales about the country.”

Marras – Backstage - hair.  The hair was designed by Eugene Souleiman “I updated old techniques from the 20’s and the 30’s.    A modern way of doing the “finger  wave”.   It’s kind of lived-in and slightly off or irregular.”

Art critic Caroline Corbetta

Blogger and store owner Eleonora Carisi

Antonio Marras – F/W 2013/14.   “Army blankets that once covered old sofas or humble beds are turned into oversized greatcoats with an exuberant mixture of inserts made of luxurious fabrics alternating with velvet and nubbly tweed.”

 Antonio Marras – F/W 2013/14.   “Rose-covered fabric inserts, floral elements, macramé lace, and striking traditional embroidery.”

Iconic journalist Natalia Aspesi and comedienne Lella Costa

  Antonio Marras and The International Herald Tribune’s Suzy Menkes

Antonio Marras – F/W 2013/14.    “…They enjoy playfully separating, rearranging and combining roses, beading and lace.” 

Antonio Marras – F/W 2013/14.    Marras concludes “That’s how I see them dressed surrounded by art, Literature, travel, the city, country, trees, gardening, past and present, each in her own world.”

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