Wednesday, February 27, 2013

Milan: MFW – Marni Fall/Winter 2013-2014

Milan: MFW – Marni Fall/Winter 2013-2014. Strictness, texture, a sparse sense of melancholia all describe the new Marni collection which is austere, with a romantic edge. It plays with ideas of un-balanced balance: volume and flatness, severity and grace, opacity and shine. Protagonists are the precision of the lines, assertiveness of the cuts, density of the surfaces. They unfold and interact, creating an intangible narrative.

Marni’s Conseulo Castiglioni and American Vogue’s Anna Wintour


Marni Fall/Winter 2013-2014.  The silhouette is streamlined, to the knee or below, expressing an idea of romance with puritanical rigor. Volumes are exact and firm, flaring slightly from the waist down or falling straight. The body is both protected and offered in glimpses. Shorts bare legs under sculptural blousons; sleeveless coats and tops draw attention to the elongated delicacy of the arms.

Renzo Russo and Gianni Castiglioni


Marni Fall/Winter 2013-2014.  The masculine element is apparent and prevalent in the coats and jackets closed by zips as aviator attire, in the bonded leather jackets and cropped knife-pleat pants. It is lightened up by transparent slices hidden inside the folds of pleated skirts.


Marni Fall/Winter 2013-2014  - hair.  Hair stylist Paul Hanlon checks the models hair before they go out on the runway, “The hair is melancholy, masculine. A low side part.  It is dry looking sticking to the head.  Very weathered. I have put lots of mousse to dry the hair out.” He explains.  

Marni Fall/Winter 2013-2014 –make-up.  Makeup artist Tom Pecheux designed the makeup, “I was inspired by Sarah Moon’s photos.  The face is blurry, very pale matt skin. Smoky peach and taupe eyes with a little transparent gloss on top and below the eye.  The lips are smudged with a “dried blood” color.

Backstage at Marni

Marni Fall/Winter 2013-2014.   Fur is used profusely, as a graphic element or a color accent: a band on a skirt or a cape, long stoles, wide collars. Otherwise, it adds another layer of intricacy to the narrative weaving of textures: beaver, alpaca and longhaired shansi create an organic storm that works as tactile contradiction.  

 Carolina and Gianni Castiglioni


Marni Fall/Winter 2013-2014.  Prints are graphic yet atmospheric: branches, forests, landscapes intrigue the eye, suggesting backdrops and scenarios for other stories. The color palette is severe, with turbulent peaks: black, charcoal, deep blue, grey, touches of oily yellow and oxblood. Compact fabrics enhance the cuts: tweed, bonded velvet/leather, men's suiting wool, brushed mohair, felt, crêpe.    

Marni Fall/Winter 2013-2014 – the sunglasses.    Sunglasses conceal the eyes behind over sized round shapes with excavated details.

  Marni Fall/Winter 2013-2014 – the bags. Bags have an adventurous edge: softly streamlined angular rucksacks with padlock closures, geometric duffels, folded bags in leather and fur or clutches in craquelè napa leather with crystal embroideries. 

Marni Fall/Winter 2013-2014 – the shoes. Pragmatic accessories put the balance further off-kilter feel: calfskin or beaver riding boots; flat sandals; flats with metallic leather toes.

Backstage at Marni

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