Milan: Marni
Fall/Winter 2012/2013 collection. The Marni Fall/Winter 2012/2013 collection is
all about control and precision; grace that is dry, assertive, with a hint of
tension. An idea of graphic composition permeates the Marni collection for F/W:
pure lines, decisive volumes. As if obeying to a precise layering plan, outfits
have a constructivist feel with a sleek outlook and a tactile intensity. Shapes are off-kilter: color is used for its
density and intensity as a design element; a restrained take on opulence and an
accent on fur as punctuating texture subtly alters the balance. The result is firm, at once sober and
twisted.
Above: exaggerated,
over sized patent leather coats add weight and presence.
Anna Wintour and Consuelo Castiglioni
Marni. Decoration turns into construction,
playing with the weight of surfaces: rounded fur collars land on top of leather
and brocade coats, or are worn in place of neck pieces: panels of mink and
felted wool recreate the strictness of a man’s coat.
Marni - hair. The hairstyle is created again by
Paul Hanlon “It’s very Marni and unique, inspired by the 1960’s, Peggy Moffitt,
Penelope Tree and Vidal Sassoon. Flat pure hair, very straight with heavy
bangs.” He explained.
Marni –
Make-up. The make-up was created by Tom Pecheux using M.A.C. Cosmetics “It’s spooky,
it could be part of the “Adams Family”. It’s like a Tim Burton character. All the make-up is mat. I put mauve all around
the eyes and I also used a white pencil in the eye and the inside corner. The nose is also shaded. And I used concealer on the mouth. It’s
unique just like the clothes.” Pecheux said.
Marni make-up F/W 12/13 created by Tom Pecheux
make-up Marni
backstage at Marni
Marni: shoes
and bags. Accessories include kabuki
soles in velvet with gold metal toecaps and lacquered platforms in velvet piped
in gold. Bags have a geometric presence:
rectangular styles with a curvilinear handle and shoulder strap, small doctors
bags with intarsia motifs, meshed leather bags on hard frames.
Events organizer and landscape designer Veronica Sgaravatti with Sak's Fifth Avenue's Terron Schaefer.
Corso Como 10's Carla Sozzani
backstage Marte and Lucinda Chambers
Marni. The
palette has notes of butter, crimson red, clear blue interspersed with touches
of pink, blush, tan and broken with notes of black, tobacco and saffron.
Fabrics have a compact hand: silk wool, double-face, lurex jacquard, wool
crepe.
Vogue Japan's Anna dello Russo wearing Balenciaga and journalist Renata Molho.
printed trouser outfits
International PR Karla Otto and Style.com's Tim Blanks
The runway as seen from backstage at Marni.
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