Thursday, March 01, 2012

Milano: Marni Fall/Winter 2012/2013 collection

Milan: Marni Fall/Winter 2012/2013 collection. The Marni Fall/Winter 2012/2013 collection is all about control and precision; grace that is dry, assertive, with a hint of tension. An idea of graphic composition permeates the Marni collection for F/W: pure lines, decisive volumes. As if obeying to a precise layering plan, outfits have a constructivist feel with a sleek outlook and a tactile intensity.  Shapes are off-kilter: color is used for its density and intensity as a design element; a restrained take on opulence and an accent on fur as punctuating texture subtly alters the balance.  The result is firm, at once sober and twisted.
Above: exaggerated, over sized patent leather coats add weight and presence.

Anna Wintour and Consuelo Castiglioni

Marni. Decoration turns into construction, playing with the weight of surfaces: rounded fur collars land on top of leather and brocade coats, or are worn in place of neck pieces: panels of mink and felted wool recreate the strictness of a man’s coat.

Marni - hair. The hairstyle is created again by Paul Hanlon “It’s very Marni and unique, inspired by the 1960’s, Peggy Moffitt, Penelope Tree and Vidal Sassoon. Flat pure hair, very straight with heavy bangs.” He explained.

Marni – Make-up. The make-up was created by Tom Pecheux using M.A.C. Cosmetics “It’s spooky, it could be part of the  Adams Family”.  It’s like a Tim Burton character.  All the make-up is mat. I put mauve all around the eyes and I also used a white pencil in the eye and the inside corner.  The nose is also shaded.  And I used concealer on the mouth. It’s unique just like the clothes.” Pecheux said.

Marni make-up F/W 12/13 created by Tom Pecheux 

make-up Marni

backstage at Marni

Marni: shoes and bags.  Accessories include kabuki soles in velvet with gold metal toecaps and lacquered platforms in velvet piped in gold.  Bags have a geometric presence: rectangular styles with a curvilinear handle and shoulder strap, small doctors bags with intarsia motifs, meshed leather bags on hard frames.

Events organizer and landscape designer Veronica Sgaravatti with Sak's Fifth Avenue's Terron Schaefer.

Corso Como 10's Carla Sozzani

backstage Marte and Lucinda Chambers

Marni.  The palette has notes of butter, crimson red, clear blue interspersed with touches of pink, blush, tan and broken with notes of black, tobacco and saffron. Fabrics have a compact hand: silk wool, double-face, lurex jacquard, wool crepe.

 Vogue Japan's Anna dello Russo wearing Balenciaga and journalist Renata Molho.

printed trouser outfits

International PR Karla Otto and's Tim Blanks

The runway as seen from backstage at Marni.
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