Monday, October 31, 2011

Milan: fashion - people - design - art - parties - food and more...

Marni - Spring Summer 2012 Collection.   Innocence is put out of context in the Marni Spring Summer 2012 collection, creating a tension between instinct and control.   The execution is graphic, the tone twisted.  Pure architectural shapes – top and skirt combinations, compact little jackets, pinafores, are contradicted by the unexpectedness of lengths, proportions and textures, suggesting a slightly-off take on demure and ladylike.   The discourse is multi-sensorial: either printed, intensely embroidered or characterized by intricate motifs, items are visually rich just as much as they are stimulating, or even challenging, to the touch.  The result is dreamy with an electric acidic frisson.

Marni's creative director Consuelo Castiglioni. 

Marni.   Waist nipped and a pervasive A-line, the silhouette is neat and graphic, with a sense of addition.  Lean organza underskirts are worn with to the knee flaring skirts suggesting both carelessness and precision.

Marni - accessories # 1.    Bags and pumps with contrasting brogue motifs.

Marni - accessories # 2.  Bags with precise shapes are characterized by tactile woven motifs: strips of leather are braided together, or with silk cords, to create windowpane patterns. Shoes are ankle strap pumps with gilded python stack heels, sandals with streamlined wooden heels, contrast heel pumps or pumps with brogue motifs on the toe and heel.   Prints are either graphic or naturalistic: b/w stripes, Bauhaus and circle motifs and then glass prints and summer patterns.


Marni - make Up. Make-up artist Tom Pecheux created the make-up “The make-up represents the joy of a woman growing up. The colors are warm, sun, summer colors. The eyebrows are strong to give structure, the eyeliner is copper and there is a white pencil line inside the lower eye.  A light veil of foundation and powder is accentuated around the mouth so that the lip color will pop up right into the center of the lips.” Tom explains.
Marni S/S - hair and make-up 
Marni – hair.   Paul Hanlon created the hairstyle for the Marni collection. “The inspiration is a 1950’s hairdo in the classic style.  I have deconstructed a French twist and used spray mouse to thicken the hair and then sprayed the hair with Elnett hairspray.” He said. 

  Make-up and hair superstar artists, Tom Pecheux and Paul Hanlon.

Marni.  Embroideries mix plastic and sequins, raffia and crystals, flowers and geometric elements in inventive, unconventional combinations that draw dense three-dimensional patterns on sculptural pieces. Sight and touch are simultaneously, constantly stimulated.

Bicontinental PR Karla Otto and's Tim Blanks. 

Marni – drinks.  Being the first show of the day, green tea with pretty dried rosebuds was served.

Marni - accessories # 3.   Earrings are big, with concentric, multicolor shapes, golden or Plexiglas circular pendants and stylized petals.  Deco inspired resin bracelets are piled on the arm to create graphic armbands.  Narrow temples convey lightness to the big round glasses in transparent acetate, while glasses with elongated shapes feature contrasting colors.

Marni.  Codie is being interviewed for World Fashion television.  The palette of the Marni collection is innocent and bright, with organic undertones: notes of aqua, pink, yellow are interspersed with flashes of white brown and rust.


Marni.  Plastic disks are printed with concentric motifs and geometric elements in inventive, unconventional combinations that draw dense three-dimensional patterns on sculptural pieces.


Marni.  The light breakfast was organized by food consultant Corrado Calza for the press and buyers, included yogurt with berries.

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