Marni - Spring
Summer 2012 Collection. Innocence is
put out of context in the Marni Spring Summer 2012 collection, creating a
tension between instinct and control.
The execution is graphic, the tone twisted. Pure architectural shapes – top and skirt combinations,
compact little jackets, pinafores, are contradicted by the unexpectedness of lengths,
proportions and textures, suggesting a slightly-off take on demure and
ladylike. The discourse is multi-sensorial:
either printed, intensely embroidered or characterized by intricate motifs,
items are visually rich just as much as they are stimulating, or even
challenging, to the touch. The result is
dreamy with an electric acidic frisson.
Marni's creative director Consuelo Castiglioni.
Marni. Waist
nipped and a pervasive A-line, the silhouette is neat and graphic, with a sense
of addition. Lean organza underskirts
are worn with to the knee flaring skirts suggesting both carelessness and
precision.
Marni - accessories # 1.
Bags and pumps with contrasting
brogue motifs.
Marni - accessories # 2.
Bags with precise shapes are characterized by tactile woven motifs:
strips of leather are braided together, or with silk cords, to create
windowpane patterns. Shoes are ankle strap pumps with gilded python stack
heels, sandals with streamlined wooden heels, contrast heel pumps or pumps with
brogue motifs on the toe and heel. Prints are
either graphic or naturalistic: b/w stripes, Bauhaus and circle motifs and then
glass prints and summer patterns.
Marni - make Up. Make-up
artist Tom Pecheux created the make-up “The make-up represents the joy of a
woman growing up. The colors are warm, sun, summer colors. The eyebrows are
strong to give structure, the eyeliner is copper and there is a white pencil
line inside the lower eye. A light veil
of foundation and powder is accentuated around the mouth so that the lip color
will pop up right into the center of the lips.” Tom explains.
Marni S/S - hair and make-up
Marni – hair.
Paul Hanlon created the hairstyle for the Marni collection. “The
inspiration is a 1950’s hairdo in the classic style. I have deconstructed a French twist and used
spray mouse to thicken the hair and then sprayed the hair with Elnett hairspray.”
He said.
Marni. Embroideries
mix plastic and sequins, raffia and crystals, flowers and geometric elements in
inventive, unconventional combinations that draw dense three-dimensional
patterns on sculptural pieces. Sight and touch are simultaneously, constantly
stimulated.
Bicontinental PR Karla Otto and Style.com's Tim Blanks.
Marni – drinks.
Being the first show of the day, green tea with pretty dried rosebuds
was served.
Marni - accessories # 3. Earrings are big, with concentric,
multicolor shapes, golden or Plexiglas circular pendants and stylized petals. Deco inspired resin bracelets are piled on
the arm to create graphic armbands.
Narrow temples convey lightness to the big round glasses in transparent acetate,
while glasses with elongated shapes feature contrasting colors.
Marni. Codie is
being interviewed for World Fashion television.
The palette of the Marni collection is innocent and bright, with organic
undertones: notes of aqua, pink, yellow are interspersed with flashes of white
brown and rust.
Marni. Plastic
disks are printed with concentric motifs and geometric elements in inventive,
unconventional combinations that draw dense three-dimensional patterns on
sculptural pieces.
Marni. The light
breakfast was organized by food consultant Corrado Calza for the press and buyers,
included yogurt with berries.
