Monday, March 07, 2011

Milano: Marni Fall/Winter 2011-2012 collection

Marni: Fall/Winter 2011-2012 collection – Backstage.  Anna Wintour visits the backstage at Marni’s to get a close-up preview of the collection before the show.
Question:  What is she and Marni’s creative director Consuelo Castiglioni looking at?


Answer: the fitting board.

Backstage – Marni.   Rigorous shapes; geometry as decoration; a restrained and elegant sense of embellishment: the Marni collection for Fall/Winter 2011- 2012, is strict, yet softened at the edges.  Blotchy windowpane motifs and colored grills.

Backstage – Marni.  The silhouette is lean and coherent, with rounded shoulders and hemlines that stop right below the knee. Precise as a diagram, garments encase the body, as they were soft cocoons.  

Fabrics.   Fabrics have an intense, tactile hand: double-faced wool crepe; wool fil boucle; bonded lurex knit; knitted wool felt; bonded leather. Furs are mink, fox, beaver and raccoon.  Metallic jacquards look exquisitely decorative.

Backstage: Marni – the hair. Paul Hanlon created the hairstyle for the Marni collection.
Note: the enlarged Xeroxs of the hairstyle on the wall behind Paul.  Also note the cans of hairspray on the table.  Every hairdresser for every show used cans and cans of hairspray this season in each show.

Backstage: Marni – the hair.  “The hair is super simple.” Paul Hanlon explains “It is grungy without going the whole way.  It has a feeling of the 1990s.  It’s a bit messy with a side parting.  It’s as if a model had walked into a casting.”

Seen Backstage at Marni. Matteo Marzotto and Carolina Castiglioni.

Backstage: Marni – the make-up.  Make-up artist Tom Pecheux is reflected in the mirror with some of his “tools” in front of him.

Backstage: Marni – the make-up.  Get this; Tom used the M.A.C. violet Bordeauxline Powerpoint eye pencil on the lips and the lipstick, named, One of a Kind, on the cheeks.  The oil in the background was used to prep the skin to give it a dewy tone.

Backstage: Marni – the make-up. The Make-up Tom Pecheux created for Marni using M.A.C. Pro products is  “Very moody. Very monochromatic and has a dewy skin finish.  It has an edgy, grungy romantic feeling.

Backstage: Marni – the accessories. Elbow length, outsized gloves have an industrial feel.

Backstage: Marni – the accessories. Accessories include constructivist pumps on wooden platforms, intarsia Mary-Janes with stack heel and embroidered sturdy-heel sandals. A sense of precision characterizes the bags: perforated bonded-leather clutches and printed purses closed with metal levers.

Seen Backstage at Marni. Marni’s CEO Gianni Castiglioni and international P.R. Karla Otto.

Backstage – Marni.  The tone is graphic, dry, non-romantic: juxtapositions of colors and textures give garments a constructivist feel; straight lines and dense fabrics define a new dialogue between clothing and body.


Backstage: Marni – the jewelry.  Deco bijoux with architectural volumes reflect the restrained spirit of the collection:  necklaces made of multifaceted horn, wood or resin solids interspersed with quartz or pyrite flakes; oversized pendant earrings made of multifaceted boules and elongated solids mixed with colored resins elements; sculptural rings and colored sunglasses.

Backstage: Marni – a detail.   Furs add a tactile element through intarsia patterns and unexpected tonal combinations; contrasting materials highlight the sum of parts.

Backstage – Marni.   Fruit is always welcomed backstage. 

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