Thursday, September 30, 2010

Milano: Marni Spring/Summer 2011 collection

Marni Spring/Summer 2011 collection – backstage.   Athletic and contemporary describes the mood of the Marni Spring/Summer 2011 collection.  Her style unmistakably inspired by sports uniform references and a taste for liaisons of technological fibers and couture elements.   Constructions marry color, textures and different workings.

Backstage at Marni. The Castiglioni family: Giovanni, takes care of the outlets, Gianni is the CEO, Consuelo, the creative director and Carolina takes care of the virtual store and is also the accessory buyer.

Marni. Ephemeral mini dresses in macramé lace are worn with multi-colored shorts.

Backstage at Marni –  the hair and make-up artists Hair designer, Paul Hanlon and make-up artist, Tom Pecheux ‘cuddle up’ to Freja Beha, the season’s most in demand model.

Backstage at Marni – make-up # 1.  In the words of superstar catwalk make-up artist, Tom Pecheux, the make-up is “Playful and smart, vivid colors on mat orange lips, the white eye shadow called, Jesso has a strong graphic element with a black line on the lid.  No blush, no mascara and a veil of foundation.” Tom used M.A.C. Pro make-up.

Backstage at Marni – make-up # 2.  
The lip color effect was obtained with this orangey red pressed powder, by M.A.C. called Frankly Scarlet with a foundation of orange Lipmix, see below.

Backstage at Marni – make-up #  3.  The M.A.C. orange Lipmix goes under the pressed powder on the lips.

Backstage at Marni – the hair.   Paul Hanlon created the hairstyle to look weathered, beachy and sea-salty.  At the back it is tied in a knot with elastic threads and brought to the side to give a “fallen-out” effect onto which is placed a soft leather sports helmet.

Backstage at Marni – the nails # 1. This season a lot of attention was given to nails and toe nails.  A model is getting a change of nail varnish on her feet.

Backstage at Marni – the nails # 2.
The fingernails have been softened with Nimue moisturizer.   She is reading Oscar Wilde’s A Picture of Dorian Gray.

Backstage at Marni – a detail. 
The back of a scuba inspired jacket with mesh detail in the back.

Seen at Marni.   Saks Fifth Avenue’s Terry Schaefer.

 Backstage at Marni - the accessories # 1.  Though the sunglasses place the importance on volume, the impact is light: tinted transparent acetate frames merge with the lenses of the same hue. Also note the diagonally striped motifs, which appear in knitwear and exclusive prints.

Backstage at Marni - the accessories # 2.  The sports helmets are made in soft leather and the sophisticated, sculpture necklaces add counterpoints.   Metal, the predominate material of ultramodern impact is used in striking assemblages of various sized spheres and cylinders in the finest chain-metal mesh of gold, nickel or lacquer, clusters of boules and transparent resin modules accent the uniqueness of the collection.

Backstage at Marni - the accessories # 3.   The Sandals are exaggerated fringe or leather woven sandals with wide soles.   The platform sandals have high heels and are in woven leather or set on wood.

Backstage at Marni - the accessories # 4. 
  The bags are foldable color coordinated squares made out of calfskin with contrasting patent leather handles. Alternatively, bucket bags in leather with geometrical intarsia or patent leather and raffia are woven into chequered patterns.

Seen at Marni # 1. Velvet magazine’s eccentric editor in chief, Michela Gattermayer.  She is wearing a classic white linen Bagutta shirt with turquoise leather pants made to order by Cut on her own design.

Seen at Marni # 2 – a detail.   A detail of Michela’s lucky bracelets all gifts from friends over the years.

Seen at Marni.  Architect, Matteo Thun.

Seen backstage at Marni.   American Vogue’s Anna Wintour looks at the polaroids with Marni’s creative director, Conuelo Castiglioni.

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