Friday, March 12, 2010

Milano: Antonio marras fall - Winter 2010/2011 collection

Antonio Marras:  Fall- Winter 2010/2011 collection - the grand finale.  Old window frames were the backdrop for the Antonio Marras winter collection.   “It is through windows, in small towns that the world is seen.”   The Sardinian designer, Antonio Marras explains.
Contessanally tip.  Click any photo to enlarge it.

The storyboard.   Marra’s starting point in designing a collection is always a book, music, art or a film.
The story.  For this collection he was inspired by the real Sardinian female bandit, Paska Devaddis, who lived at the turn of the last century and for love of a man, was always on the run. The legendary virago and Amazonian virgin proudly rode her horse into town defying the law. “What I want to underline is the contrast between Paska’s gentle sweetness and the brute force typical of the balantes, between innate femininity and imposed masculine rigor, romanticism and rusticity, and embellishment and austerity.”

The coats and furs.   The coats and furs are all unique pieces reconstructed from original vintage pieces.
The story. “Paska, now forced into a vagabond life without a place to call home, wears everything she owns in layers.  She wears her only treasures: a cape, an oversized sweater, a pleated skirt, a vest and gloves.”

The make-up.  The make-up was designed by Lisa Butler for M.A.C.

The make-up artist.    Lisa Butler describes the make-up “It’s dishevelled and aristocratic a lead I took from the clothes.  The lips are dark, a feeling of the 1940’s and the brows are not too groomed.   I have aged models up a bit, post Second World War partisan look.”

Finishing touch.  Lisa Butler checks the make-up before the show begins.
The story. “Paska, the proud horsewoman riding through the countryside, forests and ravines, wears lovely dresses made of Chantilly lace and precious devore fabrics.  These dresses are hidden beneath long enveloping capes that cover the body and protect it from the cold and danger.”

Hair and Make-up.   A close-up of the hair and make-up.
The story.   “She wears men’s coats patched with fur inserts needed to face the cold nights sleeping in the rough.  Her cast-off coats have been disassembled and sewn back together to fit a slim petit woman.”

The hair stylist # 1.    Eugenie Soleimani chats to Patricia Marras, his inspiration for the hair for this collection during the runway rehearsals.

A detail.  Have you ever seen so many types of hairgrips?

The hair stylist # 2.   Eugenie Soleimani
at work “The hair is very masculine and very romantic at the same time. Very Organic and lady like.  A bit like a modern Teddy boy.” he describes.

The shoes # 1.  Sensible flats with thick rubber soles.
Note: the thick wool and lurex stocking have a thick seam running up the back.

The shoes #2. High heeled lace-ups are fitted with leather spats on top.

“This morning, at around five o’clock,
I saw a woman on horseback heading
towards Funtana ‘e litu.
She was wearing a man’s coat. She was tall and beautiful:
But that is not important.
She was armed, and when she saw me, she spurred on her horse and hid.
Simone, do you think that was Paska Devaddis,
The woman with the Orgosolo bandits?
Do you know her?”
from Marianna Sirca by Grazia Deledda

Backstage.   Antonio Marras observers everything that is going on backstage and giving press and TV interviews at the same time.
The story – the ending.  After dying of tuberculosis and privation due to her vagabond life, the bandits, her lifelong companions, dressed her in the bridal gown that she never had the chance to wear and brought her back to town.

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