Milano: Marni Fall - Winter 2010/2011 Collection

Marni Fall – Winter 2010/2011 Collection.  Defining a twisted and elegant mood the Marni Fall – Winter 2010/2011 Collection is severe and precise. Measured and more austere in character in cuts and proportions, lengths and volumes, textures and combinations.  The volumes are moulded into fabric.  Exposed constructions are emphasized inside out; double and fused darts gain aesthetic importance. The colours are dense matte and uneasy.

Seen backstage at Marni.  Design director, Consuelo Castiglione.

Note: Consuelo’s jewellery; essential hand-made necklaces, sculptural assemblies of shimmering metal cabochons.  Eclectically designed chains fused and decorated with layers of enamelled metal drops and horn discs. 

Backstage at Marni.  Models are fooling around trying to wink, keeping one eye shut for I-D Magazine.

Backstage at Marni. Hair stylist, Paul Hanlon was inspired for the hairstyle by old 1950’s mannequins in shop windows, “Though a bit more chic and done-up.” He explains, “It’s as if they have gone to a hair salon, had their hair done and then got into a convertible and the wind blew out the hair.” He concludes.  

Backstage at Marni. The make-up was designed by Tom Pecheux, which he described, “It’s a mix of masculine and feminine.  The masculine; is the strong brow and kohl eyes.  The feminine; the way to apply the colour, it’s monochrome, like a deep lake that you can jump into.  The lips are copper-red and well drawn, very ladylike and heart shaped, the colour has been erased a bit, especially at the corners.”

 Seen backstage at Marni.  Photographing the old-fashion way for New York Magazine, photographer, Andreas Laszlo Konrath.

A detail.  The gloves are leather and crochet driving gloves, long or short.

Note.  How the transparent nylon socks appear above the peep toe boots.

The shoes.    A vast repertory of shoe details.  Classy wooden wedge clogs or calfskin platforms and boots with high heels in perforated leather.

The accessories.   The most important item of next season’s accessories are the socks.  Marni’s are tone on tone with transparent nylon bands.

Seen at Marni.  Globetrotting P.R., Karla Otto, has just added L.A. to her stable of offices.

The handbags.   Handbags come in a range of fabrics, leather and perforated pigskin with chromed metal frames and rounded resin handles.

Seen at Marni.   Matteo Marzotto and Carolina Castiglione.

Seen at Marni.   U.S.A.’sVanity Fair’s fashion director, photographer and artist, Michael Roberts and the New York Times fashion editor, Cathy Horyn.

Seen at Marni.  The most exciting fashion blogger of the moment, the very talented photographer, Tommy Ton, you can see his photos on Jak and Jil and Style.com.

Marni.   The grand Finale.

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MILANO FASHION: Where - When - Why - What - Who - Want ? ? ?

WHAT:    Marni show
WHERE:  Via Alserio
WHEN:     27th September
WHY:       Spring/Summer 2010 collection

WHAT: There is a new sense of ease and fluidity this season.  Natural and treated fabrics. Solid colours and polychrome designs. Geometric and floral patterns. These are the interactions in the Spring/Summer 2010  Marni collection.

 BACKSTAGE MARNI – the make-up.   The make-up was created by Tom Pecheux. Mat skin with washes of rose plum is very sculptural and looks like a glazed piece of pottery. Bohemian and effortless.  The lips are stained plum with focus in the center, a bit like a modern day 1920s shape.

BACKSTAGE MARNI – the make-up.    The tools of the trade.

BACKSTAGE MARNI – the hair.    The hairstyle was created by Paul Hanlon using two mismatched printed silk scarves.  It is very simple, effortless, easy, almost undone and deconstructed.

BACKSTAGE MARNI.  Two models flirt with the photographers.

BACKSTAGE MARNI – the it bag. Soft folded nappa bags. Oversized metal and leather covered frames finished with large boules on satchels or piped box bags. Flat, almost one-dimensional stencilled cut-out bags.  All are strong elements of the collection.

BACKSTAGE MARNI – the accessories. Depth and movement are defined by the unexpected combinations of material, colour and design, structural elements and decorative detailing. The whole collection is illuminated by big petal earrings in oxidised horn, wood and crystal stones or leather flowers like golden-edged parchment. Wood and resin make up the bracelets. Separate collars are  encrusted with macro-sequins and organza covered crystals.

RUNWAY MARNI – the boots. Stilettoed ankle boots with cut out toes are worn with beige short socks.

RUNWAY MARNI – the sandals. Soft leather brown, black and white deco sandals with medium heels are also worn with beige “sloppy” socks.
WANT: a pair of Marni socks, they have a knitted black line going up from the heel.

WHAT: breakfast.  Being the first show of the day, breakfast is always served. Espresso coffee is on hand as the press and buyers walk into the venue.

WHAT: breakfast.  Warm flaky croissants are stuffed with prosciutto di Parma or with jam.

WHAT: breakfast.  The freshly pressed orange juice.

BACKSTAGE MARNI – the press.  American Vogue’s Anna Wintour gets a private tour of the racks before the show from Consuelo Castiglioni.
Note: the gentleman to the right is one of the two bodyguards who protected Anna during the Milan Fashion Week.

BACKSTAGE MARNI – the press.  English Vogue’s Alexandra Schulman.

BACKSTAGE MARNI – the VIPs.   10 Corso Como’s Carla Sozzani.

BACKSTAGE MARNI – the VIPs.  Consuelo Castiglioni’ s daughter, Carolina.

BACKSTAGE MARNI – the VIPs.  Jewelry designer, Giorgio Vigna and Marni’s creative director, Consuelo Castiglioni.

WHAT: breakfast.  A waiter looks smart and crisp with a white shirt, black apron and Converse sneakers.

WHAT: breakfast – a detail.  Delicious yogurt with raspberries and muesli was served in small transparent glasses.

WHO:  The Sartorialist, Scott Schuman compares photos with his blogger girlfriend, Garance Dore.

WHO:  American Vogue’s Hamish Bowles, sporting a mustache and English Vogue’s fashion editor, Charlotte Pilcher.

WHO: Superstar image director, Fabien Barron.

WHO: Japan’s WWD fashion director, Shunichi Mugita.

WHO:  American Vanity Fair’s Michael Roberts and the New York Times’s Cathy Horyn.

WHO:  Superstar fashion editor, Suzy Menkes of the International Herald Tribune and the New York Times.

WHO: Vips photographer, Mario Testino.

RUNWAY MARNI:  Printed stripes, checks and polka dots, flowers printed on tulle and lurex tweed reflect the unmistakable style of Marni. There is a sense of the modern and unexpected, a touch of the recherché.

WANT: the stripped leggings, they look so modern.

THE GRAND FINALE – MARNI: A wardrobe of textural contrasts of silk and cotton, linen and paper pressed onto fine organza.  Fabrics enriched by jacquard and devoré, linen and cotton check woven with rubber, embroideries with veiled and covered stones and suede stencil cutout motifs.

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Milan: Women's A/W Fashion shows 09/10

Seen Backstage at the Marni Autumn/Winter 2009/2010 collection. In the center, Marni's designer, Consuelo Castiglioni, her daughter, Carolina and International PR, Karla Otto.

Backstage at Marni. The iconic interaction of felt and fur, the metallic glints of large pleated sequins, treated fabrics and knits, geometric motifs and abstract floral jacquards create a style that is pure Marni. A concept of elegance suffused with golden shimmer. Given movement by the relief designs of the brocades, satins, boucles and matelasse that orchestrate the shifting nuances of colors that range from yellow to pink, from octane to pale green.
Note: The in tensity and seductive allure is enhanced by new sunglasses with oversized curvaceous frames in two-tone or merging colors, matte or shinny.

Backstage at Marni – the shoes. A detail of the sandals worn with thick jacquard tights.

Seen backstage at Marni. Daria is from Russia and she is modeling and covering the international fashion circuit as a photographer for The Wall Street Journal her photos will appear online after the Paris shows. With the photos she is also planning to have a show at Mcnally’s, her favorite café, in New York, as well as, a book with the proceeds going to a charity to benefit the children of Darfur.

Backstage at Marni – the make-up. Tom Pechaux with the Mac pro team created the make-up for Marni “It’s just matte skin foundation, gold eye shadow and lip concealer.” He explained.



Seen backstage at Marni. Makeup genius, Tom Pecheux was juggling a Blackberry and an i-phone one had an American number and the other a French number.

Seen backstage at Marni. Hair stylist, Orlando Pita who was recently named one of fashion's most influential people by American Magazine W. The magazine's first ever I-List described him as a hair genius sans attitude that sets the standard.

Backstage at Marni – a detail. A range of Orlando Pita’s T3 360° styling liquids line, hair products.




Backstage at Marni. Entrepreneur, Matteo Marzotto and photographer, Stefano Guidani.

A detail. A detail of the Casio Multi Lingual Data Bank Illuminator Watch “I bought this watch just because I can see the time in the dark and it’s an amusing remake of the 1980’s original.” Stefano explained.

Seen at Marni. American Vogue’s Hamish Bowles.

Suit: Jasper Conran
Tie: Etro
Shirt: Duchamp
Glasses: Cutler and Gross
Cufflinks: Wedgwood

A detail. A detail of the Wedgwood cufflinks

Seen backstage at Marni. Pino Pipoli is the art director of Il Sole 24 Ore Magazine.
Suit: English vintage 1980s
T-Shirt: H & M

Rings and bracelet: Turkish and Indian

Seen at Marni. The Daily Telegraph’s Hilary Alexander.
Necklace: Kenyan Fairtrade tribal necklace
Jacket: John Galliano
Skirt: DKNY
T-Shirt: Velvet

Backstage at Marni. Marni experiments with a tactile dimension that ranges from fur to fabric to embroidery and from leather accessories to gems for jewelery .

Note. The look of total elegance is polished by large handbags and large necklaces in a dazzling and rich mix of materials.

Seen backstage at Marni. Fashion Wire Daily’s Godfrey Deeny.
Jacket: Gianfranco Ferre
Scarf: YSL
Pants: Religion
Watch: Armani RED


A detail. A detail of the Armani RED watch.



Marni Autumn/Winter 2009/2010 collection. The evening dresses in the finale.



Backstage at Marni. After the show, Consuelo Castiglioni gave each model a present of a Marni backpack.
Contessanally tip: click on the photos to get a better view.

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