MILANO FASHION: Where - When - Why - What - Who - Want ? ? ?

WHAT:  Gianfranco Ferre show
WHERE: Ferre Headquarters – Via Pontaccio 21
WHEN:    25th September
WHY:       Spring/Summer 2010 collection

GRAND FINALE:  Transformation is the main principle underlying the new collection, designed by creative directors, Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi.  From fabric come textures at once incredibly elaborate and delicate, weightless, almost intangible.  Metal spirals are embroidered and hammered on organza, for a feel of bark. Pleated plisse silk lame are made of ultra light fibers, as fine as gossamer.  The folds and swirls of material create lines and shapes pervaded by a sense of architectural balance.

Contessanally tip:  Click on any photo to enlarge it.

RUNWAY FERRE: Materials wrap the figure softly, lusciously, like a second skin.  The sense of motion is in the gently close fits and the cocoon silhouettes.

BACKSTAGE FERRE – the make-up. The make-up was created by Peter Philips, Chanel’s global creative director of make-up.  Purity is achieved through beautiful skin and a shine around the eyes, beige lips create a nude look.

BACKSTAGE FERRE – the hair.   The hairstyle took a lot of teasing, to achieve the architectonical shape below.

BACKSTAGE FERRE – the hair.   The hair has an architectonical shape on top, going into a triangle at the back, which moves when the model walks, a modern Cleopatra.

BACKSTAGE FERRE – the hairstylist.    Legendary hairstylist, Luigi Murenu.

RUNWAY FERRE - the front: The red carpet dresses; folds of material wonderfully smooth and seductive flow leaving a train of soft silk chiffon.

 RUNWAY FERRE - the back.  The color palette is rich in neutral tones, light and sieved, such as sand, honey and nude.  Everywhere there are splashes of gold, and of platinum subsiding into exquisite iridescent gray hues.  Black and silk white musts.

BACKSTAGE FERRE – the press.  After the show, Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi greet Conde Nast’s Grazia d’Annunzio and Ariela Goggi.

WHO: Seen at the Ferre show.   The late Gianfranco Ferre’s brother, Alberto and his wife, Charlie Ferre.

WHO: Seen at the Ferre show.   Belgium milliner, Geoffroy Moreels and Chilean photographer, Alberto Ibarretxe.

WHAT: Seen at the Ferre show.  Two straw hats designed by Geoffroy Moreels for his company My Bob.

WHAT: Seen at the Ferre show – a detail.  Geoffroy’s trademark; all hats have a red ribbon rim inside the crown.

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Milano: Spring Summer RTW 2009

Gianfranco Ferre. Respect for an absolute love of elegance, the spontaneous elegance that comes from self-knowledge and so is never distinct from a secret inner oneiric essence. This is what modulates the Gianfranco Ferre women’s collection for Spring/Summer 2009, the first under the creative direction of Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi. Fluid and constructed all in one, the collection draws upon the Italian tradition of fine tailoring to define a unique contemporary style which bypasses every hint of folk as it gives life to surprising silhouettes. The collection is in utter sync with the great heritage of Gianfranco Ferre.



Gianfranco Ferre. The new Gianfranco Ferre creative directors, Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi pose with Ferre’s owner, Tonino Perna. Both men wear navy blue sweaters reminiscent of the surplus sailor Genovese sweaters one used to buy at the Livorno market in the 1960s.

Gianfranco Ferre – detail. Tommaso wears two big silver rings, one on each hand.

Gianfranco Ferre – detail. Tommaso wears his Louis Vuitton belt to one side.

Gianfranco Ferre – detail. Both designers wear jeans but sport very different shoes; Tommaso in velvet slippers and Roberto in Adidas.



Gianfranco Ferre. Gianfranco Ferre's CEO, Michela Piva welcomes guests to the show in a vintage Gianfranco Ferre long knitted grey dress.

Gianfranco Ferre – detail. A diamond encrusted safety pin designed by Gianfranco Ferre.

Gianfranco Ferre. Author and journalist, Donatella Sartorio chats with Pitti Immagine’s president, Gaetano Marzotto and his beautiful journalist wife, Albertina.


Gianfranco Ferre. Max Mara’s Giorgio Guidotti and Laura Lusuardi have come to support Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi who worked for ten years at Max Mara. This is there debut collection under the Gianfranco Ferre label.

Gianfranco Ferre. American Vogue’s editor in Chief, Anna Wintour.


Gianfranco Ferre – detail. This is all Anna carries around with her: a palm, black glasses and bordeaux leather notebook/wallet.


Gianfranco Ferre. In a purple sleeveless blouse, fashion stylist to the stars, Rachel Zoe is scouting looks for the red carpet.


Gianfranco Ferre. French Vogue’s editor in chief, Carine Roitfeld and Emanuele Alt.



Gianfranco Ferre. Italian Vogue’s, Anna Piaggi.



Gianfranco Ferre – detail. A big velvet and leather bag designed by Barbara Hulanicki for Coccinelle and a sky blue walking stick are just part of Anna Piaggi’s look.




Gianfranco Ferre. Vanity Fair’s fashion director, Michael Roberts.

Gianfranco Ferre – detail. Michael Roberts’s real Contax film camera with Zeiss lense. “I hate digital cameras.” He told me. Michael has just launched another book entitled, Fashion Victims.

Gianfranco Ferre. Stylish editor in chief of La Repubblica’s Velvet magazine supplement, Michela Gattermayer.
Note: the silk Mantero scarf tied loosely around her neck, the black tee shirt, the rose tattoo, the five pearl earrings, the Indian rings and Rolex gold watch. Everything is beautifully and casually put together.

Gianfranco Ferre – detail. A close up of Michela Gattermayer’s precious stones and gold enamel Indian rings.



Gianfranco Ferre – front. The front of the grey bustier-dress with “samurai’ embroidery.

Gianfranco Ferre – back. The back of the grey bustier-dress with “samurai” embroidery.

Note: the Big white fan ruffle and big black bow.

Gianfranco Ferre – detail. The shoes with hemispheric heels in Plexiglas and metal: otherwise with skinny heels set on metal forms reminiscent of the basic atom’s molecular structure.

Gianfranco Ferre. Ferre’s new Vice-President for Public Relations in the U.S.A., Carlos de Souza, organized the press conference backstage in between the two shows.



Gianfranco Ferre – detail. Bracelets designed by Carlos de Souza for his line The Most Wanted Design Jewelry and a classic gold watch by Jaeger Le coultre.


Gianfranco Ferre – detail. Carlos de Souza’s jewelry in black and brown diamonds from his The Most Wanted Design Jewelry collection.

Gianfranco Ferre. Backstage Cristina Derosas keeps everything under control.

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FASHION FOOD AND FLOWERS

The Gianfranco Ferre Autumn/Winter 2008/2009 Collection. Huge panels, reproductions of Gianfranco Ferre’s original sketches, serve as backdrops to the U shaped runway for the Gianfranco Ferre Autumn/Winter 2008/2009. How I miss him.

The runway at the Gianfranco Ferre show. A model on the runway evokes memories of Gianfranco Ferre.


Backstage at Ferre – accessories. A tray of bright silk cravats. Very Gianfranco Ferre.


At the Gianfranco Ferre show. American Vogue’s editor in chief Anna Wintour is being interviewed for RAI Tre news.
Anna’s favorite restaurant. Her hotel, The Four Seasons.

At the Gianfranco Ferre show. Vogue Italia’s editor in chief Franca Sozzani and fashion icon Anna Piaggi.

Franca’s favorite restaurant in Milan. Ristorante Da Giacomo.
Anna’s favorite restaurant in Milan. Il Baretto.


At the Gianfranco Ferre show. Italian TV personality Elenoire Casalegno shares a joke with Italy’s Patrick McMullen, Stefano Guindani who owns the largest photography agency in Milan.

Elenoire’s favorite restaurants. Le Calandre near Padova. Ristorante dal Pescatore, near Mantova. Ristorante Miramonti near Brescia. Don Alfonso near Napoli.

At the Gianfranco Ferre show. Gianfranco Ferre’s neo external art director, responsible for overseeing the brand’s identity, Fabien Baron sits next to Ferre’ CEO, Michela Piva.

Fabien’s favorite restaurants in Milan. La Torre di Pisa and Alla cucina delle Langhe.

At the Gianfranco Ferre show. Italian actress, Rosalinda Celentano, who received international attention for her portrayal of Satan in the movie The Passion of Christ chat’s with actress Anita Caprioli whose latest film, The Demon of Saint Petersburg directed by Giuliano Montaldo is due out in April.

Rosalinda’s favorite food. “Just like children, I love cotolette, mashed potatoes and French fries.” she confessed.

Backstage at Ferre. It’s tea time for Magdalena, she told me “My driver usually brings my food to the shows.”

Backstage at Ferre. The mood board is always a source of inspiration.

Backstage at Ferre. Freja sips green tea.

Backstage at Ferre – accessories. Note the beige patent leather clutch bag and all the rings. In the foreground, a refined version of knuckle-dusters.

Backstage at Ferre. The checklist, tells you which model has been through with hair and make-up.

Backstage at Ferre – make-up. The make-up for the Ferre Autumn/Winter 2008/2009 collection was created by Linda Cantello for Mac. Linda works between Paris and New York. “I have created an extremely natural and chic mood. It’s the Epiphany of Ferre.” She explained. Cantello’s influence in the make-up world has a broad and impressive reach. Her make-up regularly appears in all the major international fashion publications.

Backstage at Ferre. Mac’s senior make-up artist Liz is applying foundation to Olga, who comes from Russia.
Food. Olga usually brings fruit, nuts, chocolate and water to work in her bag.

Backstage at Ferre. A models “rations” sit on the make-up table.

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