Paris in August - La Grande Epicerie de Paris

MOVIE: La Grande Epicerie de Paris – cheese counter. Admire and let you mouth water as you look at this selection of French cheese.

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Paris in August - Marche Raspail Bio

Street Market: Marche Raspail Bio – the documentary. While I was there they were filming a documentary for the Nuits Blanches de Paris, scheduled from October 4th through the night to the morning of the 5th. The Golden Retriever in the foreground is the mascot of the film crew. Though it was August a good thirty of the hundred vendors came out on the tree-lined divider of Boulevard Raspail. This is the chicest outdoor Parisian street market and you can find the best organic and gourmet products like; bread, meats, cheeses, cakes, pastas, as well as, natural products like hand milled soaps, candles, homeopathic remedies, clothes scarves and gloves.

Note: The Marche Raspail can be found on Boulevard Raspail between ru du Cherche-Midi and the rue du Rennes in the 6th arrondissement, it is open from 7am to 2pm on Tuesdays and Fridays; Sunday (organic) from 8am to 3pm.

Street Market: Marche Raspail Bio. One of the many organic farmers who sell at the Marche Raspail Bio street market on Sundays. As you can see the carrots and potatoes come straight from the earth.Street Market: Marche Raspail Bio – Roger Le Guen. I really liked the assortment of these pretty ethnic reversible quilted silk or cotton jackets on Roger Le Guen stall. I also loved the scarves and bijouterie. Roger has been selling in the Parisian market for fifteen years and one of his most famous customers is Isabelle Huppert.

Street Market: Marche Raspail Bio – Roger Le Guen. This long wool waistcoat, photographed from the back is fantastic and original. It is quilted on the outside and plain on the inside and has long points in the front. It would look stunning on top of a thick woolen jacket and would also keep you very warm.

Street Market: Marche Raspail Bio – Roger Le Guen. Roger Le Guen’s philosophy is simple, he displays it on this board on the side of his stall:

Beaute et Qualite FIRST!
Pour ELITES authentiques – PREFERABLY –
Et les autres (WHY NOT)
(DE TOKYO a SAN FRANSCISO DE RIO a TORONTO DE CAPE TOWN a HELSINKI)
Vous ne trouverez que des soies de qualite, des modeles EXCEPTIONNELS et SUBLIMES
en FOULARDS, ECHARPES, uniquement a l’enseigne
“LES YEUX DE MATISSE”
Sur les marches de la VILLE DE PARIS.
MAUBERT. MONGE. QUINET. RASPAIL BIO.
Et nulle part ailleurs (NOWHERE ELSE)
PAS MEME A ROME

Street Market: Marche Raspail Bio - the Breton T shirt. The best gifts are these one hundred per cent cotton long sleeved stripped original Breton T shirts for only twelve Euros. They come in a variety of colors and sizes that go from babies right up to men and women.

Street Market: : Marche Raspail Bio - Foies Gras Lafitte. Though I don’t really approve, their stand did look typically French. Jean and Marie Gremillet sell Lafitte goose and duck liver whole foie gras on Parisian markets and online. They also sell jams and jellies, especially inviting are their Sauternes Jelly and the truffle products, like the Truffle Pieces, a jar of Tuber Melanosporum, which can be used to enhance the flavor of soups, sauces and vinaigrettes. Their most famous customer is Alain Ducasse.

Street Market: Marche Raspail Bio – Sabi et Sabi. Get your Bonpoint fix for one hundredth of the price at Sabi and Sabi, who sell the most beautiful smocked children dresses and wait for it, they cost at the very most twenty Euros. All their other products are also hand-embroidered in Madagascar. Talking of children clothes, you must go and visit the new Bonpoint flagship store near the Luxembourg Gardens on the rue du Tournon. Unfortunately I was not allowed to take photographs. The 1,200 square meters space, houses ten rooms with clothing, accessories, shoes, a restaurant, a garden and a VIP private boudoir for their rich and famous customers like; Angelina, Nicole and Claudia.

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Paris in August - Jardin du Luxembourg

Jardin du Luxembourg – the gates. Let’s enter into the largest public park in Paris situated in the 6th arrondissement of the rive gauche, The Luxembourg Garden. It was doubly exciting to visit this beautiful twenty-five hectares park, to see the natural and well kept landscape gardening, flowers, fountains and antique statues, as well as, the contemporary art exhibition, ArteSenat, which features, every summer, forty-one sculptures and installations by French artists.

Jardin du Luxembourg: Jean-Marc Sicard. I found this installation by Jean-Marc Sicard very attractive. Red ribbons, which flutter in the wind, are tied to branches of this tree-lined walk. They read “Etre dans le vent est un ambition de feuille morte.” Sicard is one of the forty-one contemporary French artists showing in the Artesenat exhibition, until September 21st, in the Luxembourg Garden. The modern pieces look good against the beautiful landscaping, architecture and statuary.

Jardin du Luxembourg: Jean-Marc Sicard – a detail. A detail of Jean-Marc Sicard’s istallation which reads “Etre dans le vent est un ambition de feuille morte.” which roughly translates as "To be trendy is a dead leaf’s ambition". This quote, originally by Milan Kundera, is also the title of the 2008 Artesenat exhibition in the Luxembourg Garden.

Jardin du Luxembourg: the flower borders – a detail. A detail of the flower borders surrounding the Luxembourg Palace, now the house of the French Senate. The Palace was built by the architect, Salomon de Brosse in 1615-1627 in the Florentine style for Maria de Medicis.

Note: I was intrigued by the unusual mixture of lavender and geraniums.

Jardin du Luxembourg: La Fontaine Medicis. I turned a path in the gardens, round the corner of the Senate and was surprised and enchanted to come upon this magical fountain. Built in 1630 at the request of Marie de Medicis to remind her of her childhood walks spent in the Boboli Gardens in Florence. The statue group at the top, Polyphemus Surprising Acis and Galatea by Ottin (1861), was not part of the original fountain but was added after relocation. This fountain is the only one of the Queen’s original decorations in the Luxembourg Garden to survive to the present day. In the foreground a bird’s nest inspired sculpture by Polska in wicker and bamboo.

Jardin du Luxembourg: La Fontaine Medicis – a detail. A detail of The Medicis Fountain. I loved the garlands of ivy that line the path along the water on both sides. In the foreground a floating sculpture by the French artist, Polska entitled La Pirogue, it’s ten meters long and made with bamboo and wicker.

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Paris in August - Dog & Design

Dog & Design – Stephane Moisset. Stephane Moisset opened Dog & Design just a couple of months ago. After studies in History of Art, Journalism and a stint as a political PR, he decided that what he really wanted to do is work with his dog, Archibald. His dog accessories boutique on the chic rive gauche on the rue du Cherche-Midi stocks only the most refined products that you can’t find in any other store in Paris. Stephane is full of ideas and is planning a full range of new products, which he will create himself, his aim is to deconstruct and redesign existing accessories.

Dog & Design – dog bed and bowls. This extravagant dog day bed is an exact replica of Marie Antoinette’s dog bed at the Metropolitan Museum in New York. This antique copy was completely restored by the finest artisans in France. The stylish designed slick, food and water bowls with supports in Plexiglas are from Italy.

Dog & Design – dog collars. Stephane, is the Paris stockist of Patch and Scott the deluxe British stylish dog accessory line. The dog collars and leashes are all handcrafted in Spain with French leather and sold in London and now, Paris as well.

Note: the bespoke details, like the smart design of the snap hook, the stitching and the finest French calf leather.

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Paris in August - The Search for the Perfect Club Sandwich

Why the search for the perfect club sandwich. My friend, Ivana de Marchi Zanon wants to add a really good club sandwich to the menu in the bar restaurant of her Relais & Chateaux Villa Abbazia Hotel in Follina, Veneto. And, as it was raining and cold in Paris, and most of the shops and good restaurants were closed for vacation, I thought I could do some research for her. This is what I found.
The search for the perfect club sandwich – Cafe de Flore. This historical landmark since 1890 has been a favorite of the Existentialist Movement and writers and artists. Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir always took their coffee and croissants there on the terrace. It is still enjoyable to go there for a snack or tea.
Club sandwich chez Café de Flore. Delicious, abundant and crunchy double decker. A very satisfying meal with fresh ingredients. It fell apart just like club sandwiches should. I felt the bread could have been toasted a little bit more. And, the potato chips were absolutely fantastic. Like Sartre I sat in the terrace and watched the tourists go by on the Boulevard Saint-Germain.
Rating: 8/10 Price: 19,00 Euros

History of the club sandwich. The most popular theory is that the sandwich first appeared in 1894 at the famous Saratoga Club House – an exclusive gentlemen only gambling house in upstate Saratoga, New York – where the potato chips were born. The name probably comes because of its popularity at resorts and country clubs. The club sandwich was a favorite of King Edward VIII and was prepared by his wife, Wallis Simpson.

The traditional ingredients: The club sandwich is often served as a double-decker and the traditional ingredients are; turkey, bacon, lettuce and tomato. It is usually served on toasted bread cut into quarters and held together by cocktail sticks. Ham is sometimes substituted for bacon, and chicken sometimes for turkey. Mayonnaise is the common sauce, but honey mustard is sometimes used. Cheese is often added to the sandwich as well, usually Swiss, American or Cheddar.

The search for the perfect club sandwich – Angelina. Angelina is an old fashioned tea room on the Rue de Rivoli, founded in 1903. I used to go there in the 1970s when it was frequented by the Paloma Picasso set and connoisseurs, now it is really crowded by tourists, but it is still worth the long wait to get a table. Angelina is famous for two things: Chocolat African chaude, topped with whipped cream and the Mont Blanc dessert, chestnut puree topped with whipped cream.

Club sandwich chez Angelina. Though it looked so proper, slick and trim, it was a full and delicious meal. It didn’t fall apart and it was cut into two triangles. The ingredients were classic and I appreciated the salad on the side.
Rating: 8/10 Price: 15,50 Euros

The search for the perfect club sandwich – Delicabar. Delicabar also sub-titled Snack Chic is hidden through trendy dress racks on the first floor of the Le Bon Marche department store on the rive gauche. It is the place the fashionista’s go for a quick light lunch before they drop from too much shopping. The brightly colored pop art decorated restaurant also has a terrace, the perfect place to sit in the summer. I was doubly disappointed in the food, A, because the chef is Sebastien Gaudard, formerly the head pastry chef at Fauchon and B, because the restaurant is bang on top of the gigantic gourmet store, La Grande Epicerie de Paris. Everything we ate was insipid and nothing to write about.

Club sandwich chez Delicabar. The worst. Mostly tomato, lettuce and a tiny bit of chicken with lots of Romanesque sauce, no bacon and only two slices of toasted bread and it was covered in regular and dark potato chips, probably straight from a packet. Called the Club Sandwich Classique on the menu, it had nothing classic about it,

Rating: 4/10 Price: 19,00 Euros Pin It

Paris in August -Musee de l'Orangerie - Jardin des Tuileries

Place de la Concorde and the Musee de L’Orangerie. One of the eight statues representing one of the eight major cities of France, Marseille stands near the Quai des Tuileries on the Place de la Concorde. Behind it you can see the glass roof of the Musee de L’Orangerie.

The Fosse Jaunes: The Orangerie has recently been reopened after renovation, it was originally built in the second half of the 16th century on the site of Paris’s first bastion of three walls surrounding the city, know best as the Fosse Jaunes or yellow trenches, referring to the color of the earth. Recently, during the renovation work of the museum, the excavating crew discovered in the basement, where you can view them today, some of the antique stones. These are part of Louis XVIII’s third and last set of original walls built during the period of 1632-1637. In 1852 the Orangerie Museum took as it’s home this former orangery, where, as its name indicates, the Tuileries grew its own fruit tree.

Musee de L’Orangerie – Les Nympheas: Claude Monet’s Nympheas or Water Lilies have been in the Orangerie Museum since 1927. A Gift from Monet (1840-1926) to the French state, they hang in two oval rooms as requested by the artist. A true testament to Monet’s talent, these great paintings were created between 1914 and the time of his death and are the culmination of an entire life’s work. They were inspired by a ‘water garden’, surrounded by trees and decorated with aquatic plants, on the artist’s property in Giverny. The eight panels reflect the passing of the hours, from morning in east to sunset in the west. The paintings are displayed in circular spaces, which, with no beginning and no end, surround the viewer. L’Orangerie Museum is referred to as the “Sistine Chapel of Impressionism”.

Musee de L’Orangerie: Les Nympheas – a detail. A detail of one of Claude Monet's gigantic Nympheas. Look at the beauty of the brushstrokes and the colors.

Musee de L’Orangerie - La Collection Jean Walter et Paul Guillaume: Paul Guillaume painted by Kees van Dongen, Portrait de Paul Guillaume, circa 1930. Paul Guillaume (1891-1934) was the Parisian art-dealer and collector who assembled a prestigious art collection without equal in any other Parisian museum. The Jean Walter et Paul Guillaume Collection of 144 paintings is housed in the lower floor of the Musee de L’Orangerie. The works of art bear witness to artistic creation in France through the end of the 19th and the beginning of the 20th centuries. The collection displays two seminal periods in French art. Impressionism is represented by exceptional paintings by Renoir and Cezanne; early modern art and the return to a degree of Classicism, typical of the period between the two wars, are illustrated by masterpieces by Modigliani, Le Douanier Rousseau, Picasso, Matisse, Derain, Utrillo and Soutine.

Musee de L’Orangerie: Paul Guillaume painted by Andre Derain, Portrait de Paul Guillaume, circa 1919-1920.

Musee de L’Orangerie: Paul Guillaume painted by Amadeo Modigliani, Novo Pilota, 1915.

Musee de L’Orangerie. A doll’s house reproduction of Paul and Domenica Guillaume’s Paris apartment at 22 Avenue Foch, circa 1930. This tiny model shows how the Impressionist paintings where hung in the art-dealer and collector’s home.

Jardin des Tuileries – L’Orangerie. In the Tuilerie Gardens, there are green metal chairs, which have slanted seating which encourages lying back in a comfortable seated position. Beyond the chairs, placed besides L’Orangerie Museum is the French sculptor, Alain Kirili installation in painted welded-steel, of seventeen white abstract forms, called, Grand Commandement Blanc, 1986.

Jardin des Tuileries – entrance from the Rue de Rivoli. The first gated entrance on the Rue de Rivoli from Place de la Concorde gives you this stunning view of the Tuilerie Gardens. Beyond the artificial pond and fountain, encircled by statues representing mythological figures, is the Musee de L’Orangerie, home to Monet’s big Water Lilies paintings. L’Orangerie reopened two years ago after extensive renovations. I love the wooden painted potholders, very French.
Contessanally tip. Click on any photograph to enlarge it.

Jardin des Tuileries – Richard Serra. American minimalist sculptor, Richard Serra, who is known for his large-scale sheet metal sculptures, designed this installation piece, entitled, Clara-Clara in 1983 for this particular location. Twenty-five years later it was re-located at the entrance of the Tuilerie Gardens and Place de la Concorde and will be on view until November 3rd. From the other side, through the opening of the two curved lines you can view the perspective of the Champs Elysees right up to the Arc de Triomphe.

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TUSCANY - Lucchesia: A garden in Lucca

Villa Massei – the gate and the cypress viale. This is the short “story” of an enchanting garden near Lucca. This gate leads you into the magical world of Paul Gervais de Bedee and Gil Cohen and the garden they created. They planted the cypress viale only ten years ago and it already looks historic. In the spring, pink Pimberton roses peek out through the trees.

Villa Massei – the aperitivo and the guests. The garden is also a great venue for entertaining. In the photograph, at dusk, the men gather for an aperitivo, as the ladies tour the garden before dinner. “I used to see mostly people in the arts, but now we’re happy to see anybody nice and well mannered, especially if they have style and entertain.” Paul explains about the guest list.

Villa Massei - the table setting. The stunning backdrop of the 16th century grotto is the ideal location for one of the four tables set for eight under the old camphor tree. Heirloom apples from a tree by the henhouse are casually placed among miniature lanterns. The falling water from the grotto provides the only music. “We have two or three parties of thirty in the summer, and in the winter we have small dinner parties in the dining room for twelve.” Paul explains.

Villa Massei - a detail. A detail of the table setting by candlelight. Guests reserve their places for a simple buffet dinner of seasonal food from the garden. The diamond-studded purse belongs to interior decorator, Daniela Leusch.

Photograph by Manfredi Bellati

Villa Massei – The Orange Garden. The Orange Garden was born as a herb garden but took on refinement in time.

Villa Massei – the garden designer, author and host. Paul Gervais de Bedee, is a thirteenth generation New Englander, he is descended from the family of Francois-Rene de Chateaubriand. He is also the author of two books on the Villa Massei garden, both entitled “A Garden in Lucca”, one of which is a picture book published by Idea Books in Italian, an English version of which, is due out next year. And, last but not least, he has a lot of style and designs the most beautiful gardens. Paul spends “A time” with Olive, one of two Siamese cats in the villa’s antique loggia.

Villa Massei – the terra cotta pots. A watercolor of one of the terra cotta pots designed by Paul. This one is called Pittosporum and is inspired by Bauhaus classic modernism. The flower pots are entirely hand made of Impruneta clay and will be available in 90, 70 and 50 cm sizes from the well known garden designers’ website: www.paulgervais.com in October.

Villa Massei – a detail. A close up of the sketch that shows how the pot will look when it has a ball shaped topiary inside it. The numbers at the top refer to the scale of the vase.

Villa Massei – the pussycat. Olive, seated in a lemon pot, watches the guests arrive. She is the more present, of Paul and Gil’s two cats; her sister Tea is a great huntress who’s often off stalking the creatures of the fields.

Villa Massei – The stone bench. The stone bench in the Dolphin Court was fashioned with fragments of an old demolished balustrade found in the garden when Paul and Gil bought the villa.

Villa Massei – another bench. This tiny bench of found stone fragments makes a destination at Al Pastore, the guesthouse at Villa Massei, which is available for rent by the week.

Villa Massei – a naturalistic staircase. The guesthouse, Al Pastore, is reached via a naturalistic staircase that passes through a collection of rare Mediterranean plants, such as sarcopoterium spinosum, found on the island of Patmos.

Villa Massei – the rose lover and his rose bush. Gil Cohen stands in front of an Eden rose bush. This rose bush is a "tongue-in-cheek" joke between him and Paul, that only the most sophisticated gardeners could understand. Eden rose, is one of the few modern roses Gil has allowed in the garden. Gil is a philanthropist and esthete and is from a prominent family of Boston real estate developers, distinguished for their inroads in the creation of shopping centers. He is known in Lucca for his work at the Liceo Classico, where he volunteers as a native English speaker. Both Gil and Paul graduated in fine arts from the San Francisco Art Institute, where they met in the early 1970s.

Photograph by Manfredi Bellati

Villa Massei – the Memorial Fountain. The Memorial Fountain is dedicated to Gil’s father who passed away when the garden was nearing completion. The colonnade is built of hand-made terra cotta bricks.

Photograph by Manfredi Bellati

Villa Massei – the old garden. The Old Garden was the hardest to work with as it was anything but a clean slate with its three hundred year old cypress trees.” Paul explains.

Note: the different shapes of topiary in the foreground.

Contessanally tip: click on the photograph to get a better view.

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TUSCANY - Lucchesia: custom-made purses

The purse-maker - Giusi Vanini. This attractive lady, Giusi Vanini started making cloth purses five years ago when a girlfriend showed her a cloth bag she had bought in Paris. Giusi took on a challenge and copied it better. From then, nothing will stop her when she is inspired. On these days, she might get up at 6 am and work right through till 9 pm, even forgetting to eat. Giusi also enjoys scouting for fabrics, ribbons, beads, cords and any other accessory she can use in her creations, like hats and antique clothes. She can custom make you a purse from your own fabric or transform your ideas into reality. This is her hobby and she only sells to friends, or friends of friends by appointment, in her villa amidst the olive groves of the hillside near Lucca. Giusi also has a stall at some of the charity fairs. The next fair is in Milan at the Floritalia fair in Piazza San Marco, September 27th and 28th, profits from the sales will benefit one of the charities of the parish Church of San Marco.

Contact: Giusi Vanini – mpvanini@gmail.com

The coin purse. These fabulous ethnic inspired purses were made from ceremonial antique dresses of Turkish children.

The bucket bags. Giusi has such a wild imagination. Look at these bucket bags, with feathers, with fabric petals and with faux gold Gucci inspired “bamboo” handle.

The Belgium army surplus shirt. Giusi buys new Belgium army surplus shirts at the popular Livorno market. She then washes and washes them until all the stiffness has gone out of the fabric and they look slightly faded. She personalizes them with pretty striped fabric on the inside cuffs, with applications of amusing bits of fabrics on the pockets and with ethnic ribbons and baubles on the back half belt. Each one is different and very handsome. The shirt is also an ideal summer “jacket” when the weather gets a bit chilly.

The drawstring purse. Giusi loves to discover petty fabrics, beads and cords for her purses. In the background, a mirrored patterned shocking pink Fez hat was turned into a purse.

Note: the different use of patterns between the outside and the inside of the purse, as well as the heavy glass bead on the drawstring and the beautiful cord handle.

The Fez purse. Giusi custom-made this drawstring purse with a Fez hat for Vicky Ceschi a Santa Croce. Pin It