photographs and copyright Manfredi Bellati
Ca Pesaro - Galleria Internazionale d’Arte Moderna
Epoca Fiorucci
“(...) Goods for Fiorucci were not just products: they represented
values, thoughts, relationships, ways of living, and this is where the reason
for the “permanence” of his work lies, regardless of the historical period and
the consumption of styles, because being current means making the role of the
“thinking subject” prevail over the empirical result. It could be said that
Fiorucci made sure that all his creative activity would not be consumed in his
own time, but would gradually acquire a sort of infinite “hermeneutic” power.”
Gillo Dorfles
in conversation with Aldo Colonetti -
3 February 2018
At
Ca Pesaro - Galleria Internazionale
d’Arte Moderna, until January 6, the exhibition, Epoca Fiorucci, curated by
Gabriella Belli and Aldo Colonetti with Elisabetta Barisoni celebrates the late
Elio Fiorucci, and the iconic fashion label he created in 1967. The famous
Milanese fashion stylist/designer, revolutionized fashion, with bright
colorful, sexy, fluorescent clothes, often with references to Pop, Underground,
Disco and Punk cultures.
Fiorucci Dxing -
Disco Look – 1975
Italo Lupi –
Cherubini - Logo Fiorucci – 1970
Photograph and copyright Oliviero Toscani – courtesy
MUVE
“He wears
the finest clothes, the best designers heaven knows
Ooh, from his head down to his toes
Ooh, from his head down to his toes
Halston,
Gucci, Fiorucci
He looks like a still, that man is dressed to kill”
Sister Sledge
He looks like a still, that man is dressed to kill”
Sister Sledge
He’s the
Greatest Dancer
Fiorucci was stimulated
by other worlds and cultures this soon brought him to the forefront of
ready-to-wear fashion. He was also inspired by art and artists like Keith Haring, Jean-Michel Basquiat and Andy Warhol, as well as, contemporary
architecture and architects such as Sottsass,
Mendini, and Branzi.
Oliviero Toscani – photograph - 1979
Cristina Rossi,
Andy Warhol and Elio Fiorucci
Los Angeles
Fiorucci – Post 2000
Tyvek Paper
Clothing
Floria
Fiorucci, Franco Marabelli, Elisabetta Barisoni,
Mariacristina Gribaudi, Aldo
Colonetti, Paolo Baldessari, Gabriella Belli
Gisella Borioli
Leopard
Print Raincoat – 1970-1975
Mickey
Mouse Jumper – “Walt Disney Productions” - 1975-1980
Claire
Dew, Madison, Jane and Stephen Schaffer with Elisabetta Barisoni
Rubber
Ankle Boot – 1980-1985
Fiorucci, the son of a shoe seller, was a unique personality, who succeeded in
revolutionizing fashion at the end of the sixties by bringing the spirit of Swinging London to Milan.
Franco
Marabelli and Giannino Malossi
Fiorucci
Jackets and T-Shirts – 1980-1990
Danilo
Filios
Fiora
Marelli and Gisella Borioli
Photograph courtesy MUVE
Fiorucci
Milan - Galleria Passarella
Keith
Haring - Graffiti - 1983
Fiorucci did not seek “works” from his artists and architect friends, but their creative input for places, narrations and events and was thus the first international “stylist” to entrust leading architects,
graphic designers and fashion designers with the task of representing and
publicizing his clothing and accessories, seen as an extension of their persons and
their identity.
MinnieT-Shirt - “Walt Disney Productions” - 1975-1980
Paola
Comolli
Polo
Neck Jacquard Multicolored Wool Dress – 1970-1975
Oliviero
Toscani – Advertising Campaign Posters – 1975-1978
photograph courtesy MUVE
“Everyone
Free”
Elio
Fiorucci
Fiorucci’s curiosity, and search for the new, the desire not
to set limits and not to reject out of hand inspired his Everyone Free motto. Thus Fiorucci transformed jeans, making them a sexy and
seductive garment thanks to the combination with Lycra; he invented
golden lame trousers and made the bikini popular; he used latex for clothes and accessories and created an entire
collection with the innovative Tyvek
paper fabric. The brand did not concentrate solely on clothing but appeared
also in the graphic work, publicity material, furnishing of the shops, objects
and Panini figurines, in a
continuous creation of images, ironic
celebrations and a subtle vein of provocation.
Oliviero Toscani – 2004
Portrait of Elio Fiorucci
“Fiorucci”, was a sort of Marcel Duchamp not only in fashion but, one could say,
in the way of drawing things, the spaces, the relations between the object and
the person”.
Aldo Colonetti
Paolo
Baldessari, Aldo Colonetti and Aldo Cibic
Rubber
Shoes and Bag – 1980-1985
Black
Dress - 1980-1985
Jacket
and Cylinder Plaid Bag – 1975-1980
Stephen
Schaffer, Giorgia Pea and Gabriella Belli
“Love
will save the world.”
Elio
Fiorucci
Love
Therapy - Brand
Attilio
Concari – photograph
Mirella
Clemencigh and Elio Fiorucci
Jane
da Mosto and Mattia Berto
Men's
Yellow
and Black Trousers – 1985
Shirt
– 1985
Marco
Loredan, Suomi and Nadia La Valle, Livio Graziottin
Melissa McClaren
Daniela
Ferretti
“To look for new ideas and to design, it is
necessary to look at others, to go beyond appearances, to read between the
lines of languages, not only of fashion, but above all of everyday life. Fashion for me means the different ways of
living one’s body, one’s habits, so that each of us is able to be himself.”
Elio
Fiorucci
Fiorucci
beachwear - Latex Swimsuit – 1985-1990
Francesca
Benvenuti and Debora Rossi
Fabrizio
Plessi
Plastic
Shoe Bag – 1970-1980
Helene
Grunteid- Rossi, Elisabetta Di Maggio and Chiara Bertola
Alessandra
Albarello
Jean-Michel
Basquiat – Untitled – 1981
Long-Sleeved
T-Shirt – 1975-1980
Short-Sleeved
Shirt – 1985-1990
Catalogue
– Collection Sole Fiorucci Metalflex – 1984
Epoca Fiorucci is curated by
Gabriella Belli and Aldo Colonetti with Elisabetta Barisoni and with the
collaboration of Floria Fiorucci, the Archivio Fiorucci, the installation is by
Studio Baldessari e Baldessari, and the creative and artistic consultancy is by
Franco Marabelli.
The Catalogue
Epoca Fiorucci - Consorzio Museum Musei – 2018
Epoca Fiorucci - Consorzio Museum Musei – 2018
The
Epoca Fiorucci catalogue’s graphic
design and layout are by Sebastiano Girardi and Matteo Rosso, it contains texts
and
testimonies from some who collaborated with Elio Fiorucci; Cecilia
Alemani, Elisabetta Barisoni, Gabriella Belli, Gisella Borioli, Andrea Branzi,
Maria Canella, Aldo Colonetti, Carlo D’Amario, Michele De Lucchi, Gillo Dorfles,
Giusi Ferré, Floria Fiorucci, Rose Lee Goldberg, Italo Lupi,
Giannino Malossi,
Franco Marabelli, Maripol, Alessandro Mendini, Cristina Rossi, Oliviero
Toscani, Ugo Volli, as well as a conversation between Gillo Dorfles and
Aldo Colonetti, recorded shortly before the former’s death. It is available in the MUVE museum shops or online.