contessanally: #MFW - Arthur Arbesser - Fall/Winter 2018/2019 Collection – Backstage

Ex-Casa dell'Opera Nazionale Balilla

Arthur Arbesser - Fall/Winter 2018/2019 – Backstage - Friends

“Simplicity lies not in omission, but in synthesis”
Koloman Moser

In the dilapidated, stark empty spaces of the Ex-Casa dell’Opera Nazionale Balilla, former social center and theater, built in the 1930s by architect Mario Ceregnini of the Movimento Italiano Architettura Razionale, Arthur Arbesser presented his Fall/Winter 2018/2019 collection.

www.arthurarbesser.com/

Arthur Arbesser

For Autumn/Winter 2018/19, Arthur Arbesser revisits his origins in a more mature way, looking in particular at the work of Koloman Moser, painter and designer among the founders of the Viennese Modernism, on it’s 100th anniversary. Clothes become a pretext to emphasize a timeless vision, free from the passing of trends and seasons, and inspired by the philosophy of Moser, with his will to follow and close the circle of everyday life in all its aesthetic aspects. The references are diverse - wooden inlays, blown glass, ceramic vases, carpets or metal stairs: in this way knitwear becomes a rich tapestry, dresses turn into inlaid surfaces and shirts into iridescent pieces of furniture.

https://wienermoderne2018.info/en/

Arthur Arbesser - Fall/Winter 2018/2019
Stripes #2

Stripes by now, one of the hallmarks of the brand, are proposed in different variations and techniques.

Arthur Arbesser - Fall/Winter 2018/2019
Stripes #3

The most precious stripes - a pattern designed by Moser in 1902 and retrieved from the archive of the historic Viennese Backhausen fabric mill - is reproduced in a contemporary key through a wool and silk jacquard - developed in shades of tobacco and black, red and gray.

Arthur Arbesser - Fall/Winter 2018/2019
Stripes #4

Mariuccia Casadio

Elisa Nalin, Margherita Maccapani Missoni and Candela Pelizza

Arthur Arbesser - Fall/Winter 2018/2019
Stripes #4

Andrej and Laura Jelic

Annamaria Sbisa and Stephan Janson

The Make-Up - Francelle Daly
M-A-C Pro Team
Vienna Arts – Architectural - Pop of Color

Cordula Reyer and Francelle Daly

Make-Up – Earrings

The earrings, made for this collection are designed by Milan based friend and jewelry designer Nathalie Jean in bronze and hand-cut green quartz, which recall geometric patterns and architectural details of the Viennese Modernism.

Nathalie Jean

Arthur Arbesser - Fall/Winter 2018/2019

With this collection Arbesser searches for new ways to read the female frame. Volumes embrace the hips and gently follow the lines of the body, creating new movements. His eye is no longer directed towards young debutants, but is instead looking at women who are conscious of their physicality – who are mature, strong and nonchalant.

Arianna Lupini, Luca Cannonieri and Silvia Negri Firman

Anna Riva

Clara Tosi Pamphili and Alessio de Navasques

Luca Cipilletti

Hair – Mari Ohashi
Toni and Guy Artistic Team
Structural – Architectural – Elegant – Effortless

Arthur Arbesser - Fall/Winter 2018/2019

Fabrics are re-read in a more conscious way. Cotton is used for dresses and shirts with intricate slits; printed viscose at times clings to the body or instead flows generously around it until it meets with warm Loden or thick waxed nylon; they are all “real” fabrics, which refer to a more grown up and thoughtful dimension.

Lilly Wittgenstein

Marco Sammicheli, Maria Cristina Didero and Flavio Del Monte

Arthur Arbesser - Fall/Winter 2018/2019
Prints

In addition to the different types of stripes the collection features a series of original prints: bucolic scenes inhabited by lively animals, monkeys, ostriches and camels are depicted as an abstract bestiary. Flowers no longer appear sweet and romantic, but rather become solid and material, brave and bright, as flashes of color illuminating black and white skies.

Arthur Arbesser - Fall/Winter 2018/2019

Suzy Menkes

Chiara Robiony and Victoria Hyde

Gianluca Longo

Arthur Arbesser - Fall/Winter 2018/2019

Arthur Arbesser’s intention is to dialogue with women who are determined, rigorous, cultured and modern. The codes of the brand are reinforced and the aesthetics are reinvigorated with new elements, which create a continuous mix of clean and essential, but also eccentric and sensuous lines.