Tuesday, February 27, 2018

#MFW - Arthur Arbesser - Fall/Winter 2018/2019 Collection – Backstage – Friends




Ex-Casa dell'Opera Nazionale Balilla
Arthur Arbesser - Fall/Winter 2018/2019 – Backstage  - Friends
“Simplicity lies not in omission, but in synthesis”
Koloman Moser
In the dilapidated, stark empty spaces of the Ex-Casa dell’Opera Nazionale Balilla, former social center and theater, built in the 1930s by architect Mario Ceregnini of the Movimento Italiano Architettura Razionale, Arthur Arbesser presented his Fall/Winter 2018/2019 collection.




Arthur Arbesser
 
For Autumn/Winter 2018/19, Arthur Arbesser revisits his origins in a more mature way, looking in particular at the work of Koloman Moser, painter and designer among the founders of the Viennese Modernism, on it’s 100th anniversary. Clothes become a pretext to emphasize a timeless vision, free from the passing of trends and seasons, and inspired by the philosophy of Moser, with his will to follow and close the circle of everyday life in all its aesthetic aspects. The references are diverse - wooden inlays, blown glass, ceramic vases, carpets or metal stairs: in this way knitwear becomes a rich tapestry, dresses turn into inlaid surfaces and shirts into iridescent pieces of furniture.

 
Arthur Arbesser - Fall/Winter 2018/2019
Stripes #2

Stripes by now, one of the hallmarks of the brand, are proposed in different variations and techniques.


Arthur Arbesser - Fall/Winter 2018/2019
Stripes #3
The most precious stripes - a pattern designed by Moser in 1902 and retrieved from the archive of the historic Viennese Backhausen fabric mill - is reproduced in a contemporary key through a wool and silk jacquard - developed in shades of tobacco and black, red and gray.

 
Arthur Arbesser - Fall/Winter 2018/2019
Stripes #4

 
Mariuccia Casadio


 Elisa Nalin, Margherita Maccapani Missoni and Candela Pelizza

 
Arthur Arbesser - Fall/Winter 2018/2019
Stripes #4


Andrej and Laura Jelic


Annamaria Sbisa and Stephan Janson

 
The Make-Up - Francelle Daly
M-A-C Pro Team
Vienna Arts – Architectural  - Pop of Color
Cordula Reyer and Francelle Daly


Make-Up – Earrings

The earrings, made for this collection are designed by Milan based friend and jewelry designer Nathalie Jean in bronze and hand-cut green quartz, which recall geometric patterns and architectural details of the Viennese Modernism.


Nathalie Jean


Arthur Arbesser - Fall/Winter 2018/2019

With this collection Arbesser searches for new ways to read the female frame. Volumes embrace the hips and gently follow the lines of the body, creating new movements. His eye is no longer directed towards young debutants, but is instead looking at women who are conscious of their physicality – who are mature, strong and nonchalant.


 
Arianna Lupini, Luca Cannonieri and Silvia Negri Firman

 
Anna Riva


Clara Tosi Pamphili and Alessio de Navasques


 Luca Cipilletti


Hair – Mari Ohashi
Toni and Guy Artistic Team
Structural – Architectural – Elegant – Effortless

 
Arthur Arbesser - Fall/Winter 2018/2019

Fabrics are re-read in a more conscious way. Cotton is used for dresses and shirts with intricate slits; printed viscose at times clings to the body or instead flows generously around it until it meets with warm Loden or thick waxed nylon; they are all “real” fabrics, which refer to a more grown up and thoughtful dimension.


Lilly Wittgenstein


Marco Sammicheli, Maria Cristina Didero and Flavio Del Monte


Arthur Arbesser - Fall/Winter 2018/2019
Prints 

In addition to the different types of stripes the collection features a series of original prints: bucolic scenes inhabited by lively animals, monkeys, ostriches and camels are depicted as an abstract bestiary. Flowers no longer appear sweet and romantic, but rather become solid and material, brave and bright, as flashes of color illuminating black and white skies.


 Arthur Arbesser - Fall/Winter 2018/2019

 
Suzy Menkes


  Chiara Robiony and Victoria Hyde

 
Gianluca Longo


Arthur Arbesser - Fall/Winter 2018/2019

Arthur Arbesser’s intention is to dialogue with women who are determined, rigorous, cultured and modern. The codes of the brand are reinforced and the aesthetics are reinvigorated with new elements, which create a continuous mix of clean and essential, but also eccentric and sensuous lines.

 
Arthur Arbesser - Fall/Winter 2018/2019
More stripes #5


Arthur Arbesser - Fall/Winter 2018/2019
The Boots

The shoes and boots are realized thanks to  
Tuscan Manufacturer Fabio Rusconi



Deanna Ferretti and Simmonetta Gianfelici

 
Marie Magritte

 
 Rehearsal
Arthur Arbesser and Crew