Saturday, November 19, 2016

New York: Cooper Hewitt –Scraps: Fashion, Textiles, and Creative Reuse

 
New York: Cooper Hewitt –Scraps: Fashion, Textiles, and Creative Reuse. Offering creative, alternative approaches to confronting textile waste, Scraps: Fashion, Textiles, and Creative Reuse exhibition on at Cooper Hewitt until April 16, presents the work of three designers who put sustainability at the heart of the design process: Luisa Cevese, founder of Riedzioni in Milan; Christina Kim, founder of dosa, inc., in Los Angeles; and Reiko Sudo, managing director at Nuno in Tokyo. Each designer’s practice involves innovative and sophisticated reuse of textile materials and resources, while engaging in preservation of local craft traditions. And, they find it both aesthetically and financially worthwhile to recycle while striving to sustain traditional textile practices and skills in a modern world. The exhibition explores key facets of sustainability, such as the efficient use of materials and resources, the preservation of local craft traditions and the integration of new technologies in the recycling process.

 
Scraps: Fashion, Textiles, and Creative Reuse
Christina Kim
Christina Kim, founder of the Los Angeles-based fashion brand dosa inc. has deep respect for India’s hand weavers, which inspired her to develop a design process for using up scraps over several fashion seasons.
Choga and slip - dosa inc. – 2003
hand-spun, hand-woven brocaded cotton - jamdani saris, cut and sewn
1st generation garment: rabary jacket  - dosa inc.– 2003 
hand-spun, hand-woven brocaded cotton jamdani scraps, cut and sewn


 
Christina Kim
2nd generation garment: Eungie skirt – dosa inc. – 2007
hand-spun, hand-woven brocaded cotton jamdani scraps, pieced, reverse-appliqued, embroidered, cut and sewn



Christina Kim
2nd generation garment: Eungie skirt – dosa inc. – 2007
hand-spun, hand-woven brocaded cotton jamdani scraps, pieced, reverse-appliqued, embroidered, cut and sewn

  photograph courtesy Cooper Hewitt

Christina Kim
Infographic Panel, Reinvesting in Handwork: Jamdani - 2015
designed by Christina Kim and Ann Sunwoo


 

Scraps: Fashion, Textiles, and Creative Reuse
Luisa Cevese
Luisa Cevese, founder of Riedzioni in Milan is attracted to the beautiful silk selvedges that are castoffs from industrial silk manufacturing and turns them into coveted fashion accessories.
    Bag Small Shaving - Luisa Cevese Riedizioni - 2012
gilded washi paper, silk, polyurethane.
Bag, Little Box - Luisa Cevese Riedizioni - 2014, textile since 1997 polyurethane embedded with polyester and polyamide metallic threads
Metallic Thread Waste – The Lurex Company Limited
Metallic brocaded silks Selvedges - manufactured by Hosoo Co. Ltd.


Luisa Cevese    
Gilded Washi Wefts - Hosoo Company Ltd - 2015
gilded washi paper
     Placemat - Luisa Cevese Riedizioni - textile since 2012
gilded washi paper, polyurethane


Luisa Cevese    
Textile Panel - Luisa Cevese Riedizioni - since 2009
Multicolor Taj -  scraps of second-hand saris (mixed fibers), polyurethane


  photograph courtesy Cooper Hewitt

Luisa Cevese    
Infographic Panel, Reimagining Industrial Waste: Scraps + Polyurethane
designed by Ann Sunwoo


 


Scraps: Fashion, Textiles, and Creative Reuse
Reiko Sudo
Reiko Sudo’s, managing director at Nuno in Tokyo, deep exploration of traditional silk production in Japan led to transforming silk waste into textiles with greater creative relevance.

Bundle of ogarami choshi – Nuno Corportation – 2016
Silk
Ogarami choshi sheets - Nuno Corportation – 2016
Silk

 

Reiko Sudo
Assorted yarns and fabrics
Kibiso  Yarns
Kibiso Stripe – 2008 - Futsu Crisscross -2008 Suzushi Stripe - 2009
 Nuno Corportation and Tsuruoka Fabric Industry Cooperative

Kibiso is the coarse layer of silk cocoon, which is normally removed to expose the fine silk filament below. Sudo has been working with the Japanese silk industry to upcycle this undervalued material into a fiber suitable for luxury goods.



Reiko Sudo
Kibiso bundles - Nuno Corporation - 2015
Waraji (sandals) - woven by Shonai Tagawa JA Fujishima Branch- 2010  hand-woven kibiso

photograph courtesy Cooper Hewitt

Reiko Sudo
 Infographic Panel, Reconsidering Materials: Kibiso and Ogarami Choshi 2015
designed by Reiko Sudo and Ann Sunwoo - manufactured by Nuno Corporation



Darning Sampler - (Netherlands) – 1723
Silk embroidery – Linen foundation
darned and embroidered