Milan: MFW – Marni Fall/Winter 2013-2014. Strictness, texture,
a sparse sense of melancholia all describe the new Marni collection which is
austere, with a romantic edge. It plays with ideas of un-balanced balance:
volume and flatness, severity and grace, opacity and shine. Protagonists are
the precision of the lines, assertiveness of the cuts, density of the
surfaces. They unfold and interact, creating an intangible narrative.
Marni’s Conseulo Castiglioni and
American Vogue’s Anna Wintour
Marni Fall/Winter 2013-2014. The silhouette is
streamlined, to the knee or below, expressing an idea of romance with
puritanical rigor. Volumes are exact and firm, flaring slightly from the waist
down or falling straight. The body is both protected and offered in glimpses.
Shorts bare legs under sculptural blousons; sleeveless coats and tops draw
attention to the elongated delicacy of the arms.
Renzo Russo and Gianni Castiglioni
Marni Fall/Winter 2013-2014. The masculine element is
apparent and prevalent in the coats and jackets closed by zips as aviator
attire, in the bonded leather jackets and cropped knife-pleat pants. It is
lightened up by transparent slices hidden inside the folds of pleated skirts.
Marni Fall/Winter 2013-2014 - hair.
Hair stylist Paul Hanlon checks the models hair before they go out on
the runway, “The hair is melancholy, masculine. A low side part. It is dry looking sticking to the head. Very weathered. I have put lots of mousse to
dry the hair out.” He explains.
Marni Fall/Winter 2013-2014
–make-up. Makeup artist Tom Pecheux
designed the makeup, “I was inspired by Sarah Moon’s photos. The face is blurry, very pale matt skin.
Smoky peach and taupe eyes with a little transparent gloss on top and below the
eye. The lips are smudged with a “dried
blood” color.
Backstage at Marni
Marni Fall/Winter 2013-2014. Fur is used profusely, as a graphic element or
a color accent: a band on a skirt or a cape, long stoles, wide collars.
Otherwise, it adds another layer of intricacy to the narrative weaving of
textures: beaver, alpaca and longhaired shansi create an organic storm that
works as tactile contradiction.
Carolina and Gianni Castiglioni
Marni Fall/Winter 2013-2014. Prints are graphic yet
atmospheric: branches, forests, landscapes intrigue the eye, suggesting
backdrops and scenarios for other stories. The color palette is severe, with
turbulent peaks: black, charcoal, deep blue, grey, touches of oily yellow and
oxblood. Compact fabrics enhance the cuts: tweed, bonded velvet/leather, men's
suiting wool, brushed mohair, felt, crêpe.
Marni Fall/Winter 2013-2014 – the
sunglasses. Sunglasses conceal the eyes
behind over sized round shapes with excavated details.
Marni Fall/Winter 2013-2014 – the
bags. Bags have an adventurous edge: softly streamlined
angular rucksacks with padlock closures, geometric duffels, folded bags in
leather and fur or clutches in craquelè napa leather with crystal embroideries.
Marni Fall/Winter 2013-2014 – the
shoes. Pragmatic accessories put the balance further
off-kilter feel: calfskin or beaver riding boots; flat sandals; flats with
metallic leather toes.
Backstage
at Marni