Milan: Etro Autumn/Winter
2012/13 collection. Veronica Etro’s autumn winter Etro collection is named Lady
Paisley and was inspired by the iconic textile design her father Gimmo made famous in the
1960s and is highly associated with the label. The collection fuses tradition
with innovation and history with contemporary desire. The look is resolutely feminine and newly
seductive, yet charged with dandy Edwardian elements borrowed from menswear.
Etro. Paisley, taken in its
most classical guise is the star. A
unique series of treatments, from laser-cut patchworks to decorative
trompe-l’oeil effects elevate the pattern above its traditional form. When laser-cut the Paisley prints are
inserted onto black tulle bases or sheer netting to give the impression of body
tattoos.
Note: the peplum leather belt,
which offers a new form of layering over snug pencil skirts.
Stiffened jackets and
coats feature molded bodies.
A tweed jacket is refreshed with leather
ruffled “lace”, a take on the Edwardian dandy.
Etro – Make-up. Charlotte Tilbury designed the make-up with
M.A.C. products. “The make-up is boyish, late eighteenth century inspired and
it’s all about the brow and the architecture of the face. Handsome esthetics. I
used a coffee pencil all around the eyes and concealer on the mouth, though ten
of the models have a red/chocolate tone lipstick called Full Chocolate.”
Etro – hair. Eugene Souleiman, one of the most influential British hair stylists of today was
inspired by Edwardian memories for the hairstyle. He uses gel, applied with a brush to squash
down the roots to make the S shape more pronounced. “It’s my interpretation of an old classic,
it’s more sculptural and equestrian.”
Gel is
applied thickly with a brush.
Hair and make-up.
Etro –
Accessories # 1. Micro patterned jacquards are inspired by men’s ties, and offer
a graphic touch. Gunmetal jewelry, such as oversized crystal necklaces, are
worn over sweaters.
Etro –
Accessories # 2. Shoes are either simple satin pumps with lace up ankles or
pointy toe booties with tie-fabric or ostrich skin inserts.
Etro –
Accessories # 3. Handbags are reduced to essential sizes that are carried by
hand. Rigid treasure boxes are covered in skate skin, while hard frame bags are
covered in opaque crocodile print leather or in a patchwork of bright lizard.
Etro. Paisley inspired tulle intarsias are inserted
in cady stretch dresses, which are strategically placed to enhance the body’s
curves.
In tune with the
collection, the Etro water bottles also have Paisley labels.