Friday, January 19, 2007

FLORENCE - Pitti Uomo

Palazzo Pitti – The Apartment of the Duchess of Aosta. The London Cut. Savile Row Bespoke Tailoring exhibition. The Mavericks – Mark Powell Bespoke Tailoring. “I am a cockney boy that gets his inspiration from the street cultures of the ‘50s, ‘60s and ‘70s. But, I’m also fond of the 1920s and 1930s.Mark Powell told me. He is nicknamed the "East End Gangster No.1." Self taught, he started his business because “I was dressing myself and was out and about in the clubs in Soho so people were constantly asking me where I got my suits made.” He explains. His business has always been in Soho and though he uses Savile Row influences, his tailoring has a street edge to it as well. He made the clothes for the movie Gangster No.1 with Paul Bettany and David Thewliss, hence the nickname. His ready to wear line, presented at Pitti Immagine Uomo, is successfully, in its second season. He is standing next to a mannequin wearing a 1960s version of a opera cape, the waistcoat has half moon shaped jet pockets and has a satin shawl collar “The cape was made for a fashion show in 2002 and the idea is 1960's rock star goes to the opera - hence the short cape, drainpipe trousers and skinny tie.
Famous/infamous customers: Harrison Ford, George Clooney, Naomi Campbell, George Michael, Usher, Bianca Jagger, David Bowie, Mick Jagger, Bryan Ferry.

Detail: Mark Powell is wearing a three piece pinstripe 1930's "gangster" style double breasted suit. The waistcoat is single breasted but with double breasted lapels and is graced by an Albertini gold watch chain and fob. The shirt has long spear collar points. The multicolored silk pink pocket handkerchief and the silver woven silk tie are also by Mark Powell. The suit is contemporary because of the white mother of pearl buttons and the white lining.
Contessanally tip: click on the photo to enlarge.