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Milano: Fashion week - Antonio Marras S/S 2013. The inspiration for Antonio Marras’s S/S 2013
collection came from American writer and illustrator Henry Darger’s most famous
work, the 15,000 page long fantasy manuscript entitled The Story of the Vivian
Girls, in What is Known as the Realms of the Unreal, of the Glandeco-Angelinian
War Storm Caused by the Child Slave Rebellion, which in more recent times was
re-titled simply The Realms of the Unreal. This massive work has hundreds of
watercolor illustrations. A neighbor found
the manuscript after Darger’s death. In
view of his retired life far not only from any artistic movement, but also from
the unreal world, Darger is considered one of the leading figures of Outsider
Art.
Antonio
Marras. Boucle fabrics, textural tweeds, damasks in various thicknesses and
colors, pink, milky-white, peach pink, apricot, lilac, pale green, pastel
shades, ceremonial colors, golden threads.
Long forgotten Chanel jackets, military jackets taken apart and
reassembled.
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Antonio
Marras – the venue. An old garage was
set up to host a make-believe posh wedding reception probably in England.
Waitresses
in their starched uniforms.
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Antonio
Marras - the roll call. The reception room evokes an old-fashioned fashion show
with models walking around the tables.
At the roll call the models rehearse the runway before the show begins.
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Antonio
Marras – the roll call. Antonio Marras embraces Alessandra Olcese of Random
Productions, who actually produced the show.
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Antonio
Marras – the roll call. Also hair and make-up watch the roll call. Hair stylist James Pecis and make-up artist
Tom Pecheux, watch for any flaws in the hair or make-up on the runway.
Tea or coffee?
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Antonio
Marras. As in the most elegant weddings, sugared almonds await guests on their
chairs along with the show’s program.
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Antonio
Marras – the roll call. Also watching
are Patrizia Marras and art director Paolo Bazzani.
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Tea for
Two? American Vogue’s editor at large
Hamish Bowles shares the wedding cake with the International Herald Tribune’s
Suzy Menkes.
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“The Table
sparkles: crystal, platinum, silver, silk, flowers, cakes. Everything’s a bit heaped together, but in a
good way, with elegance and harmony…”
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Daniela
Sardo with JRT Pierivo, better known as Pierolino.
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Antonio
Marras. Antonio Marras gives an interview to Rai 5 TV channel. He tells the
story of his collection. Antonio is
always inspired by a book or a movie for his collections. This time it is the Vivian Girls, loosely
inspired by Henry Darger’s The Story of the Vivian Girls, in What is Known as
the Realms of the Unreal, of the Glandeco-Angelinian War Storm Caused by the
Child Slave Rebellion, better known as the, The Realms of the Unreal.
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Antonio
Marras – the storyboard. The Vivian
Girls get dressed up for a wedding in England.
They have decided that today the world must be made romantic. That’s the only way it will regain its
original meaning. One of them is the
young bride and they dress up in her honor.
They’re all here; they’ve come from far away places and times, very
faraway.
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Antonio
Marras – backstage. Jackets, duster coats and dresses have duality, they become
“others”. Patch-worked front and back
in, damasks in various thicknesses and colors, pink, milky-white, peach pink,
apricot, lilac, pale green, pastel shades, ceremonial colors, golden threads.
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The 2013 bag.
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Antonio
Marras – backstage. Chaos reigns, hair
and make-up have to co-exist.
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Antonio
Marras – the hair. Hair stylist James Pecis describes the hair as “
Schizophrenic, gate crashing for an English wedding. It’s a play on textures
and there is a lot of plating, twisting and backcombing.”
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Antonio
Marras – the make-up. Tom Pecheux
describes the make-up as "Rebel. Rock and Roll, Slightly Punk. Definitely
individual. And as it’s the first time Marras has worked with Swarovski, I
placed some glitter in the inside eye, the eyes have a 60s flavor. The eyeliner
is banana shaped. I used black pencil
and powder, the basics which every woman should have.”
Lella Costa
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Rai 5’s
Daniela Ferolla sits with the president of the Camera Nazionale della Moda
Italiana Mario Boselli.
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Antonio
Marras. “Flooded with light, objects, fabrics and people are transformed, they
become something else, magic narrations with vaster, more universal meanings. And so Swarovski crystals live and speak;
simple sophisticated, elegant atoms that send luminous messages, they invite us
to look for hidden beauty and light.”
Fashion
blogger Bryan Boy
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Blogger of
Il Fatto Quotidiano Juanaria Piromallo and her daughter Tiare von Meister.
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Art curator
and consultant Caroline Corbetta.
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Caterer and
food consultant Corrado Calza.
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Fashion
consultant Lara Dittfeld and artist Pino Pipoli.
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JRT
Pierivo, better known as Pierolino.
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